Review of the Ogorodnik tomato: advantages and disadvantages, growing conditions and characteristics of the finished crop
Tomatoes of the Ogorodnik variety have attracted the attention of Russian summer residents due to their taste, shape, ease of care and high yield. The variety is successfully grown in various regions of the country: tomatoes tolerate both cool and hot weather well.
If you are looking for a reliable, productive variety, then Ogorodnik is your choice.
Description of the variety
The variety was bred by specialists from the All-Union Research Institute for Selection and Seed Production of Vegetable Crops (in 2017 it was transformed into the Federal Scientific Center for Vegetable Growing). Designed for cultivation in spring-summer rotation both in film greenhouses and in open beds.
Determinate variety, mid-season. The fruit ripening period is 95-105 days. The height of the bushes is 120-150 cm in greenhouses, up to 60-80 cm in open ground. The leaves do not grow densely, which allows you to grow tomatoes under film and not cut them.
Fruit characteristics and yield
In the photo above you can see that fruits are bright red, round in shape with glossy skin and dense, fleshy, sweet pulp.
In addition, “gardeners” are characterized:
- unobtrusive tomato aroma;
- unexpressed seed chambers;
- weighing 140-160 g (up to 6 ovaries are formed on the brush; if part is removed, the weight of one tomato reaches 250-300 g).
- in open ground, 5.5-6 kg of tomatoes are harvested per 1 sq.m., in a greenhouse - 11-14 kg.
How to grow seedlings
Sow seeds for seedlings 60 days before transplanting into beds. In central Russia, the dates are as follows: in March - for greenhouses and April - for open ground.
Seed preparation
Experienced gardeners carry out preparing seeds in seven stages.
The first stage is the selection of planting material. Pour out the seeds, examine and divide by size: small, medium and large. If there are a lot of seeds, leave the last two categories for planting.
Dissolve 1 tablespoon of salt in 200 ml of water, place the grains in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Discard the seeds that float to the surface, and rinse those that sink to the bottom with clean water.
Second stage - warming up. Having spread the seeds on a cotton cloth, place them on a central heating radiator for 1.5-2 days.
Interesting! There is a faster way: place a metal mesh on a table (floor) lamp in the shape of a cylinder, with paper and a bag of grains on top. Cover with a paper cap. Make sure that the temperature does not rise above +60 degrees. The duration of the procedure is 3 hours.
The third stage – disinfection. Prepare a 1% solution of potassium permanganate: dissolve a teaspoon of potassium permanganate in three glasses of water. Place the seeds in the prepared solution for 15-20 minutes, then rinse with running water.
If there is no potassium permanganate, use hydrogen peroxide: dissolve 1 tbsp in two glasses of warm (+40 degrees) water. l. 3% peroxide, place in seeds for 12 hours. This method also speeds up seed germination. Remember: peroxide solution is not used for pelleted (with a nutrient coating) and encrusted seeds (with a thin water-soluble layer containing disinfecting and growth-stimulating components).
The fourth stage - bubbling. Place the seeds in water heated to +26-30 degrees and stir them vigorously every hour.Finish the procedure as soon as embryos appear on the grains, or after 15-18 hours.
Fifth stage - soaking. Fill the grains with warm water or a solution of biostimulating preparations: “Zircon”, “Epin”, “Immunocytophyte”.
Stage six - hardening. Wrap the seeds in cotton cloth or gauze, cover with plastic on top and place for 8 hours in a cool (-2-3 degrees) place: refrigerator, balcony or open veranda. Then put it in a warm place again for 8 hours. Change the temperature 5-6 times.
Important! If you are not sure that you will carry out the procedure correctly, do not harden off all the planting material - there is a high risk of destroying the seeds.
Seventh stage - germination. Place the grains on gauze, cotton material or cotton pads, wet and place on a flat dish. Make sure that the fabric is always damp and the air temperature is kept within +25-30 degrees. After the appearance of embryos measuring 2-3 mm, sow the seeds.
Container and soil
Use special or food grade plastic containers, cups or cut bottles.
Buy the soil at the store or prepare it yourself. To do this, mix garden soil, non-acidic peat, sand and humus or sifted mature compost in a ratio of 2:4:1:2, add sifted wood ash (or dolomite flour), sphagnum moss and fallen pine needles.
Important! Treat the containers and soil mixture with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
Sowing
Place the soil in selected containers, make a centimeter furrow, place the seeds and cover with soil.. Moisten the soil with a spray bottle, cover the containers with plastic wrap and place in a warm place.
Growing and care
After germination, transfer the boxes to a well-lit windowsill and remove the film. Water the seedlings as the soil dries using a spoon, syringe or sprayer so as not to wash the still weak roots with water.
With the appearance of the first two true leaves, pick up the tomatoes, planting them in separate containers. Add mineral fertilizers to the soil at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 5 liters of soil mixture. Apply complex fertilizer every 10-14 days.
Water tomato seedlings only at the root, being careful not to wet the cotyledon leaves.
2-3 weeks before transplanting to the beds, begin hardening off the seedlings: take the boxes out into the open air during the day, first for 2-3 hours, and each subsequent day add an hour. 3-4 days in advance, leave the seedlings to spend the night outside if there are no night frosts.
Read also:
Tomato "Mashenka" and the secrets of its cultivation
How to grow tomatoes
For tomatoes, choose an area where cucumbers, zucchini, dill or carrots previously grew. Tomatoes and potatoes are considered bad predecessors. Prepare the soil in advance: apply humus and fertilizers in the fall, and on the day of planting seedlings, water the area with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Landing
Remove the seedlings along with the earthen ball, being careful not to damage the roots. Plant Gardener tomatoes according to the 50x50 cm pattern - per 1 sq. m place no more than 4 pieces.
Care
Water the bushes as the soil dries with warm water at the root. Remove weeds and loosen the soil every time you water. Apply fertilizer 3-4 times per season (every 2-3 weeks), alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.
Remember! Fertilizers should not come into contact with the above-ground part of the plant (stem, leaves).
Depending on where the tomatoes grow - in a greenhouse or outdoors - choose the method of forming the bush: in one, three stems and with the transfer of the growing point.
Solve the issue of tying yourself – depending on convenience, availability of funds and time. In any case, the tomato will give a good harvest.
Features of cultivation and possible difficulties
In dry and hot weather, water your tomatoes every day. — the Ogorodnik variety is demanding when it comes to watering. Place a mulch layer (hay or mown grass) between the rows - this will reduce moisture evaporation and the germination of weeds.
To increase the weight of one fruit, remove part of the ovary.
Advice! Place containers with manure diluted with water around the greenhouse - this will replace root feeding.
No difficulties in growing: you can refuse to form a bush, and from fertilizing, and from frequent watering, but you will still get a harvest.
Diseases and pests
Tomatoes are immune to a number of diseases: late blight, fusarium, stolbur and tobacco mosaic virus. However, preventive treatment of plantings against fungi with Fitosporin, Ecosil or Quadris will not be superfluous.
Of the pests, the gardener is threatened by nematodes and the Colorado potato beetle.
The nematode appears more often on greenhouse tomatoes. Plants damaged by worms have leaves that wilt. To check, carefully dig up the roots: green or white roots emerge from the affected plant, compactions and swellings are found. Dig up and burn the damaged bush and plants a meter away from it. Spill the soil with boiling water or a hot solution of potassium permanganate.
To get rid of parasites use:
- methyl bromide;
- nemagon;
- karbofos;
- lindane.
After treatment, do not plant fruit-bearing plants in the treated area for a year..
For reference. Plant tagetes and calendula close to the tomatoes - their aromas repel nematodes.
Exist environmentally friendly, but highly targeted nematicide drugs:
- "Nematophagin BT";
- "Basamil";
- "Aversectin S";
- "Metarizin";
- Pecilomycin.
Apply them 15-20 days before planting seedlings or directly into the holes when planting.
Constantly inspect the bushes. If you find Colorado potato beetles, collect them in a jar and destroy them.
Important! Prepare poison from the beetles themselves. Collect a liter jar of adults, pour into a 20 liter bucket and fill to the brim with water. After the beetles die (they sink to the bottom), infuse the poison for another week. Spray the tomatoes with a freshly prepared solution diluted with water 1:1 or 1:2 (select the required proportion yourself).
Of the chemical preparations, they have proven themselves well:
- "Commander";
- "Typhoon";
- "Bombardier";
- "Bankol."
About other varieties of tomatoes:
The nuances of growing in open ground and in a greenhouse
Open greenhouses frequently to ensure The gardener needs optimal air circulation.
Farmers who have already grown this variety note that in open ground in the sun the bushes bear fruit weaker.
In greenhouses, form tomatoes into three stems or with the growing point transferred to a side shoot. What does three stems mean: leave the main stem and two lower shoots. Shorten the side stepsons, leaving each with a brush with a flower and a leaf above it.
With the transfer of the growth point to a side shoot: leave the main shoot, one lowest stepson, and then another shoot, but not on the main stem, but on the lower stepson. The photo below shows diagrams of the formation of tomatoes.
In open ground, form a gardener into one stem. In this case, it is advisable to tie it up so that the bush does not fall to the ground under the weight of the fruit.
Harvesting and application
The first fruits appear on the branches already at 95-105 days. From 1 sq. m in open beds you get 5.5-6 kg of tomatoes, and in film or glass shelters - 11-14 kg. Fruiting lasts until the first frost, after which the formation of ovaries stops.
Fresh tomatoes are used in salads, sandwiches, canned snacks, lecho, sauces, and smaller fruits are eaten whole. The variety is suitable for industrial cultivation and tolerates storage and transportation well.
Tomatoes collected in a state of biological ripeness (not ripe, green) are ripened at home.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
Unlike many other varieties Ogorodnik tomatoes have no visible or significant flaws.
Benefits include:
- productivity;
- large fruit;
- taste and presentation;
- cold weather resistance;
- versatility of use.
Farmer reviews
Gardeners note that with good care, large fruits grow. Tomatoes are loved for their taste and aroma. Many people grow the variety for sale and for preservation.
Veronica Azarova, Rostov-on-Don: “I know this variety well. I regularly remove ovaries from the hands to form large fruits. If you do everything correctly, it is likely that real giants will form on the bushes. I'm putting Ogorodnik up for sale and hearing extremely positive reviews from people.At the moment I am not going to change the Ogorodnik tomato to other varieties.".
Natalya Karpova, Ekaterinburg: “When insects appear on Ogorodnik’s bushes, I collect them by hand. In extreme cases, chamomile decoction can help. It also helps with bacterial stains.”.
Sergey Pashko, Ufa: “The variety can hardly be called stable. One year I collected small tomatoes, the second year I got so large that my wife couldn’t use them for canning. Nevertheless, I give Ogorodnik a “+” and I have no intention of giving up growing it. The tomatoes are really tasty and high quality".
Conclusion
The high yield of tomatoes of the Ogorodnik variety is achieved through simple care: frequent watering, gartering and pinching. However, the bushes will bear fruit (albeit of less weight) even without careful care. Tomatoes are used in canned food, fresh salads, and grown for sale on both a small and industrial scale. The fruits tolerate storage and transportation well.