Ultra-early tomato “White filling”: we grow seedlings from seeds, transplant them into a greenhouse or soil and enjoy the harvest

Russian gardeners love the White filling 241 variety for its unpretentiousness and early appearance of fruits. These tomatoes cannot be called ideal, since the variety has a significant drawback - the plant is susceptible to late blight. In this article we will tell you how to grow a good harvest of tomatoes and defeat their main enemy.

Description of the variety

White filling 241 has been known to Russians for more than 50 years - the variety was registered in the Unified State Register in 1966 by Kazakh breeders. Today, seeds are sold from two manufacturers: the Aelita agricultural company and the Timofeev breeding station.

Many people mistakenly believe that Belyi naliv and Belyi naliv 241 are different subspecies of the same tomato variety, but this is not the case.

In the product description, the manufacturer indicates that the variety is early ripening and productive. Susceptible to fungal diseases. Recommended for open ground.

Distinctive features

Tomatoes are heat-loving plants. Therefore, selected for regions with cold summers (North, North-West and Western Siberia, as well as Central, Central Black Earth, Volga-Vyatka and Middle Volga regions), White filling has become a real find for summer residents. It is unpretentious in care and is considered the easiest to grow.

Variety determinant. The height of the bush is from 50 cm (in open ground) to 70 cm (in a greenhouse). Persistent, strong stem. The roots of the plant grow up to 50 cm in width, but do not go deep.The leaves are medium sized, light green in color. The fruits stay on the bush well and do not fall off.

Fruit characteristics and yield

The first fruits appear on the bush after 80-100 days. In open ground in cool summers, ripening occurs later.

From one bush, 2-3 kg of tomatoes are harvested with an average weight of 100 g. As you can see in the photo below, fully ripe fruits are red, round, smooth, and have a thin skin. They have a sweet-sour taste, aromatic, with juicy pulp. The fruits do not crack and withstand transportation and storage well.

How to grow seedlings

Seeds are planted for seedlings in the third decade of March. After just one and a half to two months, the plants are ready to be planted in the garden. It is important to properly prepare the grains before planting.

Seed preparation

It is necessary to start preparing seeds 1-2 weeks in advance. First of all, choose good grains - they should be large, smooth to the touch, full inside. Empty, small, irregularly shaped seeds are not planted - the likelihood of obtaining viable seedlings from them is low.

One old, proven method will help you select the “right” grains: In 1 glass of water (250 ml), stir a tablespoon (2.5 g) of table salt. Place the seeds in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Throw away those seeds that float to the surface, and select those that sink to the bottom for planting.

Then heat the grains. To do this, place a cotton cloth on a hard flat sheet and place the seeds on top. Place this design on a central heating radiator for 36-48 hours.

The next stage of seed preparation is disinfection. To do this, prepare a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and place the grains in it for 15-20 minutes.

Important! Potassium permanganate does not affect diseases and pathogens that live inside the grain, but copes well with pathogens on the surface of the seeds.

After the procedure, rinse the grains with lukewarm running water.

Some summer residents insist that dressing is not necessary for purchased seeds - this has already been done at the manufacturer.

Next, the seeds are saturated with oxygen. This procedure is called “bubbling”. It is performed both manually and by machine. Hardware processing is suitable for large-scale production; people can do it themselves at home. To do this, heat the water to a temperature of +26 – +30 degrees and place 20-30 grains in it. Stir the water with the seeds once an hour. The duration of the procedure is 15-18 hours, but when embryos appear on the grains, bubbling is stopped immediately.

Then soak the ungerminated seeds. Place the grains in water at room temperature for 12 hours. Sometimes, instead of water, a solution with biological stimulating drugs is used.

Experienced gardeners use such tools as:

1. "Zircon".
2. "Epin."
3. "Immunocytophyte".

When soaking grains in biostimulants, remember that the latter only work at an air and liquid temperature of +20 degrees.

The next stage is hardening. Summer residents often skip this stage of preparation due to its complexity - an incorrect procedure kills the seeds. However, if hardening was successful, this will greatly increase the viability of seedlings during spring frosts.

Wrap the grains in cotton cloth and polyethylene and place them in a cool place with an air temperature of +2 -3 degrees (a refrigerator or balcony is suitable for this). After 8 hours, return the seeds to a warm room for 8 hours.Repeat the procedure 5-6 times.

Before planting in the ground, germinate seeds tomato To do this you will need cotton cloth or gauze. Moisten the fabric with warm water and place it on a flat dish. Place the seeds on a cloth and cover with another layer of damp cloth. To germinate grain, place in a warm (+25 - +30 degrees) place and make sure that the fabric always remains damp. As soon as a sprout appears from the grain, equal in size to the grain itself, it can be planted in the ground.

Container and soil

Any container will do - special containers sold in stores, plastic cups, used yogurt, cottage cheese or sour cream containers, lids from cake packages, cut-off plastic bottles. Regardless of the choice, the container is disinfected in a 5% solution of potassium permanganate.

A universal soil for tomatoes is suitable. You can buy it in the store. Soil mixture composition:

• humus;
• peat;
• river sand.

To prepare soil for tomato seedlings yourself, combine:

• 1 part of garden land where cucumbers grew, zucchini, carrots, dill;
• 2 parts non-acidic peat (pH 6.5);
• 0.5 parts sand (river or washed);
• 1 part humus or sifted mature compost.

You can add sifted wood ash (or dolomite flour), sphagnum moss, fallen pine needles.

Attention! One day before planting seeds, disinfect the soil: treat with boiling water or potassium permanganate.

Sowing

Place the seeds at a distance of 2-4 cm. Sprinkle with a layer of soil no more than 2 cm and spray with water from a spray bottle. Cover the containers with film or glass (you can use a regular plastic bag). In the room where the containers will be placed, the temperature should be above +20 degrees.

Growing and care

As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the film and place the container on a bright windowsill. Water small seedlings as the soil dries using a syringe or a teaspoon under the root, avoiding moisture getting on the cotyledon leaves.

Important! Tomato seedlings do not like direct sunlight.

In the phase of two true leaves, the seedlings are picked. To do this, plant each plant in a separate container, digging almost to the cotyledon leaves. Add mineral fertilizers to the soil for replanting at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 5 liters of soil mixture.

Be sure to make holes in the container to allow excess liquid to escape. 10 days after picking, feed the tomatoes with complex fertilizer. Repeat feeding every 14 days. Water as the soil dries out and always at the roots.

Immediately after transplanting, begin hardening the tomatoes. To do this, in the evening, take the pallets with cups out onto the balcony or outside, first for one hour, then for two, gradually increasing the time spent in the air to 12 hours. Similarly, plants are accustomed to sunlight.

How to grow tomatoes

When the seedlings become stronger and reach a height of 20 cm, they can be transplanted into the beds.

Landing

It is better to plant tomatoes on the south or southeast side of the garden. A good harvest is obtained on loamy or sandy soils, where cucumbers, onions, and zucchini used to grow. Tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplants and potatoes are considered bad predecessors - the plants only suffer from infections.

Tomatoes do not like crowding, so the optimal distance between bushes is 50 cm. A good planting method is square nesting: plant bushes in the corners of an imaginary square, each side of which is 50-60 cm.In the center, make an irrigation hole with a diameter of 40 cm, at the bottom of which place 1 liter of ash or a handful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and on top - mowed grass without seeds and rhizomes.

Tomato care White filling

The variety is not picky in care. Abundant root watering is necessary 2 times a week, before sunrise. Avoid watering in the evening if the air temperature drops below +20 degrees at night, otherwise the tomato will become infected with fungus.

The roots of the plant need oxygen, so weed and loosen the soil often. Hill up when lateral roots form.

Two weeks after planting in the beds, the plants can be fed with both organic and inorganic fertilizers. Fertilizing is carried out twice more during the formation of the ovary.

Important! Through moistened soil, nutrients will reach their intended destination faster, so tomatoes need to be watered before applying fertilizer.

White filling tomatoes do not require pinching or bush shaping. But to increase productivity, leave 2-3 stems on the plant. Cut off the stepsons carefully - it is better when they reach a length of 4-5 cm, when it is easier to assess their viability. It is allowed to remove unnecessary ones after the start of flowering. In this case, it is better to tie up the bushes - the fruits will be larger and the plant may fall to the ground.

Important to remember! It is advisable to remove stepchildren by hand. When using a knife, there is a high probability of transferring diseases on the blade from bush to bush. If you use a knife, the blade should be disinfected when moving to a new plant.

Features of cultivation and possible difficulties

One of the significant difficulties in cultivation is the susceptibility of the variety to late blight. Therefore, it is not advisable to plant White filling 241 next to potatoes or in an area where potatoes grew previously - fungal spores may remain in the soil or be transferred from diseased neighbors. In addition, water the tomatoes only at the root and remove the lower leaves.

Diseases and pests

White filling 241 is an ultra-early tomato variety. Fruit ripening begins in late July - early August, and fungal diseases actively spread in late summer - early autumn. Therefore, when planting tomatoes early, phytosporosis does not have time to infect the bushes. However, if you planted tomatoes later than the time recommended by the manufacturers or in case of prolonged cool and wet weather, carry out preventive treatment of the bushes with a Fitosporin solution.

Nasturtium or marigolds planted near tomatoes save from pests - their smell repels many harmful insects.

The nuances of growing in open ground and in a greenhouse

The main difference is in the timing of planting seeds. For greenhouses, grains are sown in the third ten days of March, and for open beds - in mid-April. Manufacturers claim that it is possible to achieve high yields in open ground in the cold regions of Russia.

Harvesting and application

The fruits are harvested at about 100 days. Used in preparing fresh salads, hot dishes and frozen dishes. Tomatoes of this variety are excellent for canning because they do not crack. They are used to prepare sauces, ketchups, and tomato paste. But “White Naliv” tomatoes are not suitable for making juice - the juice is too thick.

Fresh fruits are stored for a week. If you pick them from the bush while still unripe, the period will increase to 2-3 weeks.

For reference! During the ripening process, the fruits are white - hence the name of the variety.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The disadvantages include low resistance to fungal diseases.

However, the variety has a number of advantages, which include:

• early fruit ripening;
• no need for stepsoning;
• resistance to cold temperatures;
• ease of care;
• taste and commercial qualities.

Farmer reviews

People who plant White filling note that, despite its susceptibility to fungal diseases, the variety is easy to grow, and thanks to early ripening, it easily avoids infection and death of fruits before the onset of late blight outbreaks.

Margarita Torshina, Chelyabinsk: “Seed germination is good. The bushes of Belyi naliv are low, there are a lot of fruits on the bushes. The white filling does not crack. The taste and smell are tomato, pleasant. The taste is slightly sour. Despite the slight sourness in taste, the child ate the White filling tomato with pleasure. I think that next year I will plant these tomatoes, I really liked them.”

Svetlana, Orel: “These plants tolerate both low and very high temperatures. When caring, feeding is required every 10 days and watering is abundant, but not frequent. The fruits of this variety also do not crack, which is also good, especially in rainy and cold summers. The variety is early ripening - tomatoes can be harvested within 100 days after planting. For me, this variety will not come out of personal preference, although now there are new varieties that are more productive and more resistant to diseases. But this variety, due to its precocity, manages to ripen and bear fruit before outbreaks of late blight and other diseases.”

Conclusion

White filling tomatoes 241 are perfect for regions with cool summers. They give a good harvest both in greenhouses and in open ground.They do not require special care; there is no need to pinch or pinch the bushes.

A significant drawback - susceptibility to fungal infections - is easily corrected due to early ripening of the fruits (before the onset of the disease period). Good yield - 3 kg per bush. The fruits are well suited for canning, fresh consumption, making pastes and sauces.