A veteran of domestic selection - the Siberian early ripening tomato, time-tested and loved by gardeners

The Siberian early ripening tomato was released in the late 50s of the last century thanks to the efforts of Soviet breeders. Since then, it has not lost popularity among summer residents and farmers living in areas with an unfavorable climate. This cold-resistant crop quickly takes root in the soil after planting and produces consistently high yields regardless of growing conditions.

In the article we will reveal the secret of the popularity of the variety, talk about its advantages and disadvantages, and the nuances of agricultural technology.

Characteristics and description of the variety

Early ripening variety Siberian early ripening was bred specifically for cultivation in open ground and under film shelters in regions with short and cool summers. Registered in the State Register of Selective Achievements in 1959.

Originators: Federal Scientific Center for Vegetable Growing and Agrofirm Aelita LLC.

Regions of admission: Northwestern, West Siberian, Northern, Volga-Vyatka, Ural, Middle Volga, Central, East Siberian, Far Eastern.

Determinate bushes, on the main stem - 3-4 compact inflorescences. Each of them contains 3-5 fruits.

In the photo - the Siberian early ripening variety.

The distinctive features of the variety are presented in the table.

How to grow seedlings

Mid-season Siberian tomato is grown by seedlings. Sowing is carried out at the end of March or at the beginning of April, 60-65 days before transferring to the ground.

Seed preparation

Connoisseurs of the variety describe frequent cases of misgrading or replacing seeds, so they try to collect the material themselves from previously grown tomatoes. You can purchase high-quality seeds from well-known manufacturers - SeDeK, Aelita, Fazenda.

Before sowing, the following manipulations are carried out with the seeds::

1. Calibrated to identify empty grains. To do this, the seeds are soaked for 10 minutes in a saline solution (1 tsp per 200 ml). Those that float to the surface are thrown away, those remaining at the bottom are washed with warm running water.
2. If the seed was stored in the refrigerator, perform the warming procedure one and a half months before sowing. The seeds are placed in a linen bag and placed on a heating radiator for 6-7 days.
3. Seeds are disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (30 minutes) or in a 2% solution of hydrogen peroxide (15 minutes).
4. Soak in growth stimulants - "Radipharm", "Epin", "Immunocytophyte", "Heteroauxin", "Biostim" - and dry.
5. They are pre-sprouted in gauze folded in several layers. The procedure promotes early emergence and increases the percentage of germination. The fabric should be damp, but excess water is unacceptable.
6. They are hardened to increase the protective forces of the future plant. The sprouted seeds are placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator overnight and taken out in the morning. The procedure is carried out for 3-4 days in a row.

Container and soil

Suitable for growing seedlings ordinary plastic containers, trays, boxes and cassettes, tetrapacks 5-7 cm high.

Soil for seedlings They buy it in a specialized store or prepare it themselves from turf, river sand and humus mixed in equal proportions. The soil is disinfected by heating it in an oven, double boiler, microwave oven, or using a strong solution of potassium permanganate, Fitosporin.

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Sowing

Containers for growing seedlings are filled with moist soil and plant the seeds in furrows 1 cm deep. Sprinkle a layer of peat on top and stretch polyethylene for a greenhouse effect. The container is placed in a warm place, inaccessible to direct sunlight. Seeds without preliminary germination at an air temperature of 25°C hatch after 4-5 days.The germination period of sprouted grains is reduced by half.

Seedling care

After the first shoots appear the film is removed and the containers are placed on the windowsill on the south side of the house. The optimal daylight hours are 16 hours. When there is a lack of lighting, seedlings are illuminated with fluorescent lamps.

At the stage of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted into separate 300 ml containers.

Watering seedlings - moderate, after the top layer of soil has dried. A week before transferring to a permanent place, watering is stopped, the seedlings are taken out into fresh air to harden for 30-60 minutes.

Used for feeding ready-made mineral complexes: “Agricola”, “Effecton”, “Universal”. The frequency of fertilizing is 2 times before transplanting into the ground.

Agrotechnical techniques

Rules for cultivating tomatoes in open and closed ground - standard. They assume moderate watering, loosening, weeding, mulching the soil, forming tufts into 3 stems followed by staking, fertilizing with organic matter and minerals.

Landing

Transferring seedlings to the ground begins at the end of May or at the beginning of June. In the fall, the soil is dug up and a bucket of humus is added per 1 m². In the spring, the soil is loosened, fertilized with chicken droppings (10 liters per 1 m²) and disinfected with copper sulfate (50 g of substance per 1 m²).

In the area, dig holes 20 cm deep, pour 1 tbsp into each. l. superphosphate and a handful of ash. Pour boiling water at an angle of 90°.

Seedlings are watered abundantly with warm, settled water. and planted in prepared recesses. Planting pattern – 30x50 cm, 3 bushes per 1 m².

Reference. Tomatoes prefer light and nutritious soil with a neutral pH=7.

Care

Tomato care rules Siberian early ripening:

• moderate watering in the morning or evening, at the root, once every 6 days;
• loosening the soil immediately after watering;
• weeding;
• forming bushes into 3 stems and tying them to supports;
• mulching the soil with pine needles, peat, straw, sawdust 2 weeks after planting.

Feeding scheme:

1. The first portion of fertilizer is applied 14 days after planting: 20 g of chicken manure is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Water the bushes at the roots.
2. For subsequent feedings, mineral complexes are used every 14 days: “Kemira”, “Universal”, “Rastvorin”, “BioMaster”, nitroammofoska, diammofoska - strictly according to the instructions on the package.

Over the entire period of growth tomatoes are fertilized 3-4 times.

Features of growing in open and closed ground

There are no particular difficulties in cultivating the variety. The main task of the farmer is to follow the rules of agricultural technology.

Read also:

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Hybrid for growing in open ground “Juggler f1”

Tomatoes do not like waterlogging, so watering is carried out as needed. Excess moisture leads to rotting of the root system. Wood ash will help solve the problem, simply sprinkle it on the soil or prepare a solution (one liter jar per 10 liters of water).

Low-growing bushes need moderate pinching in order to prevent flowers from falling off. When the lower flowers fall off, the plants are planted above the next cluster. The stems are tied to wooden stakes so that the branches do not break under the weight of heavy fruits.

Planting in open ground is carried out 2 weeks later than planting in a greenhouse. When cultivated in greenhouses, the bushes grow up to 90 cm. Productivity increases, but the taste, judging by reviews, worsens. The shape of tomatoes is flat-round.In the garden, plants do not exceed 60 cm in height. The shape of the tomatoes is more rounded, the taste is much sweeter compared to greenhouse varieties.

Diseases and pests

Tomatoes are not susceptible to tobacco mosaic virus, cladosporiosis, and rarely suffer from late blight. However, the culture is affected by fungal illnesses – gray rot, fusarium and alternaria.

Signs of gray rot:

• brown spots with a grayish coating on the stems;
• necrosis of plant tissues;
• wilting of tomatoes;
• yellowing of leaves.

Treatment includes removal of damaged stems, leaves, fruits and spraying with preparations: “Oxychom”, “HOM”, “Profit”, “Ditan”, “Previkur”.

Signs of fusarium wilt:

• yellowing of the lower leaves;
• wilting of the stems and tops of the plant;
• the fabrics change color to brownish-red.

Drugs are used for treatment: “Fundazol”, “Benorad”, “Vectra”.

Signs of Alternaria:

• dry, gray-brown round spots on leaves, fruits and stems;
• yellowing and dying of leaves;
• fruit deformation.

Treatment is carried out using fungicides “Abiga-Pik”, “Bravo”, “Ridomil Gold”, “Acrobat”, “Ordan”, “Quadris”.

Measures to prevent fungal diseases:

• compliance with crop rotation rules;
• moderate watering;
• covering the soil with mulch;
• soil disinfection before planting;
• disinfection of seeds before sowing;
• treatment of greenhouses with sulfur bombs;
• frequent loosening and weeding;
• maintaining optimal humidity levels.

The threat to early-ripening tomatoes is whitefly, wireworm, nematode, mole cricket. Fight insects Insecticides help: “Decis Profi”, “Strela”, “Confidor”, “Flumite”, “Borneo”, “Fitoverm”, “Iskra”.

Harvesting and application

The first crop when grown in a greenhouse is harvested already at the end of June, in the garden - 2 weeks later.

Tomatoes have a pleasant sweet and sour taste. Some farmers describe it as a classic tomato. The high content of dry substances (up to 6%) allows you to prepare tasty and rich tomato juice, pasta, and various sauces. Tomatoes are good fresh or pickled.

The fruits tolerate transportation well provided they are placed in wooden boxes in one layer.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of the variety:

• friendly ripening of fruits;
• early ripeness;
• resistance to tobacco mosaic, Fusarium wilt and Alternaria;
• consistently high productivity;
• excellent taste;
• cold resistance;
• ease of care.

The disadvantages include “advanced” age and the absence of a number of new, improved characteristics inherent in modern hybrids and varieties.

Reviews

Gardeners' opinions about the Siberian early ripening variety are divided. Some call it an ideal option for regions with cold climates, others believe that it is high time to forget about it, because many new interesting tomatoes have appeared on the market over the past decades.

Olga, Satka: “I remember my mother growing this variety about 15 years ago, and she still does it. I don’t like fresh tomatoes, they’re too sour, but for pickling and pickling you won’t find a better one. They are easy to care for. It is necessary to moderately moisten the soil and feed it with organic matter and minerals.”.

Evgenia, Novokuznetsk: “These tomatoes are the best that can be grown in our cold region in the garden. I have been planting Siberian early ripening for 10 years and am always pleased with the result. I collect the seeds myself, dry them and store them in a cool place.Germination is 100%, seedlings take root in any conditions, and the yield is surprisingly high.”.

Conclusion

Siberian early ripening tomatoes are an old-timer in the seed market. The variety has received deservedly high praise due to the absence of problems when grown in any type of soil. The culture successfully competes with modern tomatoes. It is recommended for cultivation by both beginners and experienced farmers.

Not everyone likes the presence of pronounced acidity in tomatoes. This is a subjective assessment of gardeners and consumers, which does not in any way affect the result of cultivation.