How dangerous are aphids on gooseberries and how to effectively fight them
As soon as signs of aphid activity appear on the gooseberries, you need to immediately begin the fight. It refers to prolific insects, the larvae of which constantly suck juices from the plant, actively reproduce, and become carriers of infections. Aphids easily move to neighboring crops, destroying a significant part of the crop. Find out how to fight insects from the article.
Signs of gooseberry aphid damage
After a pest attack, the gooseberry stops producing the usual amount of harvest, loses its external attractiveness - the leaves curl, fade, turn yellow, dry out.
If you do not pay attention to these signs, the bush will die in the future. But not so much from larvae, but from black sooty mildew.
How to recognize a pest
Gooseberry or shoot aphids often settle on gooseberries.. The larvae have a spindle-shaped shape, body length from 0.5 to 0.7 mm, light green color, glassy body. Individuals have large antennae and powerful jaws.
The presence of a colony on plants is recognized by the following signs:
- leaves begin to curl, deform, turn yellow and become a shelter for larvae;
- ants are active on the shoots;
- the bush was covered with a sticky coating with a gray tint.
At the end of the gooseberry flowering, winged female aphids begin to appear. They move to another part of the site or even to neighboring gardens, creating new colonies there.In the fall, eggs are laid again, from which new offspring will appear in the spring.
Damage caused
Adults do not harm crops. Larvae cause significant damage. They feed on the juice of plants and fruits. The gooseberry gradually fades, loses strength, and often dies.
Pests become carriers of sooty fungus. This in turn activates powdery mildew. First of all, the disease affects the lower part of the bush, then the upper shoots and fruits. The berries begin to deform, become smaller and dry out. In gooseberries, photosynthesis is disrupted and resistance to frost is reduced.
Aphids move to neighboring crops: currants, apple trees, cherries, zucchini, etc. If its spread is not stopped in time, by autumn the gardener will lose up to 60% of the entire harvest.
Causes
There are several obvious reasons.
Among them:
- Metabolic disease. It occurs from an excess or deficiency of microelements (potassium and phosphorus) in the root system, the plant itself.
- Overgrown area. Failure to promptly remove weeds around plants leads to the appearance of various insects.
- A large number of anthills. Ants carry aphids, so they fight these two types of insects at the same time.
- The rules of agricultural technology were violated. This is the wrong choice landing spots, deposits of fallen leaves, non-compliance irrigation regime.
Ways to get rid of aphids on gooseberries
Destroy aphids using chemical, folk, mechanical means and agrotechnical methods. If neighboring crops are already affected by the pest, they are treated simultaneously with the gooseberries.
Chemicals
Apply before the first leaves appear or after harvesting. Treatments should not be carried out during the fruiting period, as the berries will accumulate insecticidal components.It is not recommended to use pesticides during the flowering period: the pollen becomes toxic, causing the death of a significant part of the bees.
Important! Work with drugs wearing protective clothing, a mask and gloves. Be sure to read the manufacturer's advice. If it rains the next day after spraying, repeat the procedure.
"Aktara"
This is a new generation insecticide with a broad spectrum of action.. Not dangerous for humans, animals, earthworms. It destroys aphids through the digestive system.
After treatment with Aktara, the protective properties remain for 15-30 days. Prepare a solution (2 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water), spray the gooseberries with it. The procedure is carried out in the evening in dry and windless weather. If the aphids have not retreated, repeat spraying after 7 days.
"Fitoverm"
This is a biological insecticide made from waste products of soil microorganisms. It is a broad-spectrum drug and is not considered dangerous for other crops.
The solution is prepared before use: dilute 2 ml of the drug in 1 liter of water, mix thoroughly for a minute. Spray the bushes in the evening. If the mixture interacts with sunlight, its properties will be lost.
"Spark Double Effect"
This strong insecticide for controlling aphids and fertilizing plants. It contains potassium and anti-stress additives that help gooseberries recover from a pest attack.
Dissolve 1 tablet in 1 liter of water, then filter the liquid and bring it to a volume of 10 liters. The resulting product is sprayed on gooseberries. The procedure is performed in the evening in dry weather.
Traditional methods
This category is suitable for ardent opponents of pesticides and those who want to save money.
The main advantage of folk remedies is the possibility of use throughout the growing season. gooseberries. They are absolutely safe for all living things and fruits, but an excess of working components causes burns on the leaves.
Most popular folk remedies against aphids:
- Garlic tincture. 200-300 g of crushed cloves are poured into 10 liters of water, left for 3-4 hours, then filtered, poured into a spray bottle and sprayed on the plants. The procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.
- Lilac. Has repellent properties. However, the process of preparing the tincture will take some time. Lilac flowers are collected and dried for 1 week. Then 1 kg of raw material is poured into 6 liters of water and simmered in a water bath for 1 hour. The liquid is filtered and then placed in a dark place for a day. Add 20 g of grated laundry soap to the resulting infusion, mix thoroughly and spray the bushes. Repeat the procedure after 10-14 days.
- Onion peel. No less effective composition. 200 g is poured into a bucket of water and left for 5 days, filtered and used for spraying. Reapply after 10 days.
Experienced gardeners recommend scattering wood ash under each gooseberry bush.. It will not only prevent pest invasion, but will also saturate the root system with phosphorus, calcium and potassium when it enters the soil along with water.
Attention! Spraying with folk remedies is performed in the evening or early morning in dry weather. If you use garlic tincture frequently, it will cause burns on the leaves. 3-4 treatments are enough for the entire growing season.
Agrotechnical techniques
The use of chemicals and folk remedies must be alternated with the following measures:
- Removal and destruction of infected green mass. The work is carried out with clean tools.
- Timely pruning and thinning of shoots. The branches are carefully removed with pruning shears.
- Loosening the soil and weeding. After each watering, the soil is turned over to a depth of 2-3 cm. Weeds are pulled out along with their roots.
- Fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To do this, 10 g of superphosphate is mixed with 5 g of potassium salt and diluted in 10 liters of water. Leave for 2 days, then pour 1 liter under the bush.
- Mulching the soil. A fresh layer of mulch will not only block the path of the larvae, but also prevent the growth of weeds. They create flooring from sawdust, tree bark, ash, and peat.
Mechanical methods
There are several mechanical methods, but the result does not always live up to expectations:
- Aphids are washed off with a strong stream of water from a hose in 2-3 approaches. Get rid of ants in advance.
- Another way is duct tape. It is more labor-intensive, but effective. They wrap a piece of tape around their hand and begin to collect pests. This method only works if the aphids have not multiplied to colony size.
- Planting green manure. Marigolds, pyrethrum, lavender, marigolds, garlic, mustard, fennel, and chives are good at repelling aphids.
- They launch enemies. Ladybugs, hoverfly larvae, lacewings, gall midges, ichneumon wasps, earwigs, and predatory beetles (for example, Atheta coriaria) are good at repelling aphids.
Earwigs are considered another dangerous pest of vegetable crops. Therefore, they will be present on the site anyway.
Features of pest control in different periods
During the flowering and fruiting period it is used folk remedies, agrotechnical and mechanical techniques.
Chemicals are used only before flowering or after harvest.
Gooseberry varieties that are particularly resistant to aphids
There are no such people. Any gooseberry variety will be affected by aphids if certain measures are not taken care
Preventive measures
Getting rid of an aphid colony is much more difficult than preventing its appearance and subsequent reproduction.
To do this, perform:
- Fertilizers in the form of complex mixtures. This way the gooseberry receives 100% protection from pest attacks. To do this, 10 g of superphosphate is mixed with 5 g of potassium salt and diluted in 10 liters of water. Leave for 2 days, then pour 1 liter under the bush.
- Regular pruning. The bush will devote less energy to the formation of unnecessary stems. It will have enough energy left to fight off the aphids.
- Cleaning and burning fallen leaves. Afterwards, the bushes are hilled up to ensure high-quality ventilation of the soil.
- Eliminating anthills. Ants and aphids are eternal allies. Therefore, getting rid of them will be a guaranteed way to prevent pests on gooseberries.
- Digging up the area. After the snow melts and the soil warms up, the area is dug up using a shovel. This way the aphid larvae will end up on the surface and die.
Helpful Tips and Mistakes to Avoid
Frequent watering of gooseberries is not recommended. It is a drought-resistant plant, so it requires 2-3 waterings throughout the season. Damp soil often causes diseases and pests to breed. It is good if the surface of the earth is covered with a layer of mulch, and green manure is planted around the bushes.
The use of chemicals during the flowering and fruiting period of the crop is unacceptable.. It is better to replace chemistry with folk tinctures and decoctions. In this case, spraying should be carried out only in the evening in dry weather.
Conclusion
Aphids on gooseberries are a dangerous phenomenon that leads to the proliferation of sooty fungus.If measures are not taken in time, up to 60% of the harvest will be lost and the plant will die. It is important to remember one rule: it is better to prevent the appearance of pests than to try to get rid of a huge colony of insects.