Classic heart-shaped pink tomato “Batyanya”: reviews and photos of the resulting tomato harvest

The variety was bred by Siberian breeders. Tomato Batyanya is distinguished by its endurance and unpretentiousness. It can grow in the northern region and in the south. Suitable for growing in greenhouses and open ground.

Description of the variety

Batyanya is an early ripening variety. The ripening period lasts 95-105 days. Bushes indeterminate (tall), reach 1.7-2.2 m. The stems are long, which is why the plant needs a garter. The bush bears up to 10 flowers, from which 6 fruits are formed. The leaves are large in size and dark olive in color.

Distinctive features

A special feature of the variety is the size of the fruit. Their average weight is 300 g. On the clusters located in the upper part of the bush, tomatoes weighing 150-200 g ripen; on the lower ones, fruits weighing 500-700 g are formed.

Fruit characteristics and yield

The fruits have a heart-shaped cone shape. When ripe, they acquire a pink color with a crimson tint. Near the stalk the skin is glossy, quite dense, but not hard. Thanks to this, the tomatoes do not crack and tolerate transportation well.

The seed chambers are small. The pulp is fleshy, juicy and sugary. According to the tasting scale, Batyan fruits are rated 4 points. The productivity of the variety is high. 3-6 fruits are formed on the brush. The productivity of one bush is 4-5 kg ​​of tomatoes.

How to grow seedlings

To get high-quality seedlings, you must adhere to the rules of agricultural technology.

Seed preparation

Preparation of planting material is carried out to accelerate the germination of seedlings and increase the resistance of tomatoes to diseases. This helps increase productivity. Preparation consists of several stages.

Sorting

Heavy and large seeds are selected for planting. They contain large amounts of nutrients that are required for the formation of the plant. The seeds are poured into a solution prepared from 200 ml of water and 1 tsp. table salt. Then stir for 2-3 minutes and settle for 10 minutes.

Only those seeds that have sunk to the bottom are suitable for planting. They are washed with clean water and dried in a dark room. Planting material should not be placed near heating appliances. Seeds that float to the surface are thrown away.

Heat treatment

Warming up increases the germination of planting material. The easiest way is to use an incandescent lamp. The seeds are kept under it for 3-5 hours. You can put them in a gauze bag and put them on the battery 2-3 days before planting. Also, the seeds are heated for 2-3 hours in an oven preheated to 50-60˚C.

Disinfection

This stage helps protect tomatoes from diseases. The seeds are soaked for 20 minutes in a 1% solution of potassium manganese. But first they need to be filled with water for a day. After treatment with potassium permanganate planting material must be washed. For etching, a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide heated to 40˚C is also used. The seeds are kept in it for 7-8 minutes. Then they need to be dried.

Dressing is also carried out dry using a fungicide. For example, Fundazol, which is mixed with seeds. For 1 kg of planting material, use 5 g of fungicide. Disinfection with the wet method is carried out five days before planting, and with the dry method - two days.

Nutrient treatment

The day before planting, the seeds are placed in a solution of nutrient preparations:

• Epin (1-2 drops per 100 ml of water);
• Virtan-Micro (10 g per 1 l);
• Immunocytophyte (1 tablet per 150 ml);
• sodium humate (1 g per 2 l);
• potassium humate (50 ml per 10 l).

Water for solutions is heated to 45˚C.

Soak

This procedure is not mandatory. But it allows you to get seedlings 2-3 days earlier and increase the resistance of seeds to cold soil. They are placed in a gauze bag and kept for 12 hours in water at a temperature of 25-30˚C. After this, the planting material is dried. The water is changed every 4-5 hours.

Germination

To speed up germination and get an early harvest, the seeds are germinated. Place a cotton cloth in a plate and fill it with warm water. Seeds are sprinkled on top. Then they are covered with moistened gauze or cloth and placed in a room with a temperature of 20-25˚C.

Hardening

Hardened seeds have high resistance to adverse weather factors. They need to be placed between two layers of cloth or gauze, filled with warm water and placed on the radiator. After 3 days they should swell. Then the planting material is placed in the refrigerator for 20 hours, after which it is kept in a warm room at 20˚C for 6 hours. The procedure is repeated for a week.

Bubbling

For this procedure you will need an aquarium compressor and a jar. The container is filled with water at a temperature of 20˚C, and a hose is attached to the bottom through which air is supplied. Seeds are placed in a jar for 12 hours. This helps saturate them with oxygen. The seeds are then dried until they crumble.

Container and soil

For seedlings, you need to prepare boxes, pots or plastic cups with a height of at least 10 cm. The soil mixture can be purchased at the store.It should be mixed with garden soil in a 1:1 ratio and add chalk or dolomite flour (2 tbsp per 10 l). The basis of store-bought mixtures is peat. It does not allow moisture to pass through well and has a high level of acidity.

Many gardeners prefer to make their own substrate. Several mixtures are suitable for tomato seedlings:

• Mix turf soil, peat and humus in equal quantities, add 1 tsp to a bucket of mixture. urea, 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate, 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1.5 tbsp. l. ash;
• Mix 0.5 parts of mullein, 1 part of sawdust and 3 parts of peat or 1 part of turf soil, 4 parts of peat and 0.25 parts of mullein, add 1 g of potassium chloride, 2 g of superphosphate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 3 kg to a bucket of soil river sand;
• mix 1 part of soil and compost, 2 parts of peat, add 10 g of potassium and urea, 30 g of superphosphate and 200 g of ash into a bucket of the mixture.

The soil for the substrate cannot be taken from the area where tomatoes, peppers, potatoes or eggplants grew. The soil is first disinfected to destroy pathogenic microorganisms. It is poured with boiling water, then laid out on a baking sheet in a layer of 5 cm and sent to the oven, preheated to 90˚C for 30 minutes. For disinfection, the soil is also placed in the freezer for 5 days, then kept warm for a week and again exposed to cold.

Sowing

First, drainage material is poured into the container in a layer of 1.5 cm. Expanded clay, sand or fine gravel are suitable for this. Then the box or pot is filled with soil and grooves 1 cm deep are made in it at a distance of 3-4 cm. The seeds are placed every 1-2 cm. The grooves are sprinkled with earth. You don't have to make any indentations. Planting material is laid out on the surface and covered with a 1 cm thick layer of earth.

Seeds require a humidity of 80-90%.To ensure the necessary microclimate, they are covered with glass or film, which is removed after 2 weeks. The containers are placed in a room with a temperature of 20-30˚C. At 20-25˚C, the sprouts will sprout in 5-6 days. If the room is 25-30˚C, this process will take 3-4 days. Shoots will appear even at 10˚C, but this will take 2 weeks.

Growing and care

When sprouts appear, the container is transferred for 7 days to a place with a temperature of 10˚C at night and 12-15˚C during the day. Then the seedlings are again moved to a warm room. This is necessary to prevent the plants from being pulled too hard.

Water the seedlings with warm water at a temperature of 22-25˚C, which is pre-settled for 12 hours. A spray bottle is used for this. Cold water should not be used, as this will lead to the development of root rot and blackleg.

The regularity of watering is determined by the condition of the soil. It shouldn't dry out. But the substrate should also not be allowed to become overly moist. Plants are watered under the stem. This can be done using a syringe without a needle.

To ensure that the sprouts receive enough light, the container is placed on the windowsill on the southwest or south side. If this is not possible, you need to illuminate the plants with lamps for 16 hours a day. After 10-18 days, when the sprouts have 2 leaves, you need to dive. Each plant is transferred to a 200 ml container. The soil is first watered abundantly, after which the sprouts are dug out with a picking peg or a teaspoon and replanted together with a lump of earth.

Some gardeners trim 1/3 of the central root. But other vegetable growers consider this an unnecessary procedure. Restoring damaged plants will take a week. After 15-20 days, repeat picking is performed. The seedlings are moved into 1 liter pots.

After the first picking, the plants are fed. To prepare the mixture you will need:

• 10 liters of water;
• 10 g potassium salt;
• 40 g superphosphate;
• 8-10 g of ammonium nitrate.

After 8-10 days, the tomatoes are fertilized a second time with a solution of the following components:

• 10 liters of water;
• 20 g of potassium chloride;
• 15 g ammonium nitrate;
• 70 g superphosphate.

You can use chicken manure. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Add 60 g of superphosphate to 10 liters of composition. 2-3 days before moving the seedlings into open ground, carry out the third feeding. For this use:

• 60 g of potassium chloride;
• 40 g superphosphate;
• 10 g ammonium nitrate;
• 10 liters of water.

4-5 days before planting, they begin to harden the seedlings. The containers are taken outside or onto the balcony for 2-3 hours. Then hardening is extended. Tomatoes are kept in the open air for 6-8 hours. Lower temperatures, exposure to wind and sun help seedlings adapt to growing in open ground conditions.

How to grow tomatoes

Proper care helps increase productivity.

Landing

For tomatoes, choose a well-lit place. You cannot use the area where eggplants, cabbage, and peppers were grown. The predecessors of tomatoes can be legumes, cabbage, corn and cucumbers.

In autumn, the soil is dug up and 7 kg of humus, 700 g of lime and 40 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. m are added. m. In spring, the soil also needs preparation. The soil must be dug up again and added to 1 sq. m 20 g of superphosphate.

Planting begins in the second half of May. Plants that have reached a height of 25-35 cm and have formed 8-10 leaves can be moved into open ground. Tomatoes are planted in holes 15 cm deep, which are placed every 40 cm. 50 cm are left between rows.The plant is placed in a hole, watered with 1.5-2 liters of water and sprinkled with soil.

Care

Tomatoes need regular watering. At the flowering stage per 1 sq. m, 20-30 liters are consumed, when the ovaries are formed - 40-50 liters, when the fruits ripen - 70-80 liters. After watering, the soil under the tomatoes must be loosened. This will provide air access to the roots. In the first 3-4 weeks, the soil is loosened to a depth of 10 cm, then to 15-16 cm. The procedure is carried out once every 2 weeks. Loosening is combined with weeding, which involves removing weeds.

Hilling is carried out 15-20 days after planting. The earth is raked to the bottom of the bush. After 2 weeks, the procedure is repeated. Tomatoes of the Batyanya variety are formed into 1-2 stems. Excess side branches, which are called stepsons, are removed when they reach 5-10 cm. In this case, a stump of 1 cm in size must be left. This will prevent the appearance of stepsons in the future. Such branches thicken the plantings, which leads to a decrease in yield and increases the likelihood of the spread of fungal diseases.

Tomatoes need staking. To do this, stakes with a height of 1.5 to 1.7 m are installed between the rows every 3 m. Twine is pulled at a distance of 30 cm from the ground. The ends are tied to stakes. As the plants grow, another 3-4 levels of twine are pulled. The deviated stems and clusters with fruits are tied to it.

14 days after planting, the tomatoes are fed. For 1 sq. m of soil, add 20-35 g of potassium salt and superphosphate, 10 g of nitrophoska, 15 g of urea and 10 g of nitrate. The tomatoes are fertilized a second time after 20-25 days with the same substances.

To improve air exchange and provide plants with sufficient lighting, it is necessary to remove excess leaves.. The first procedure is carried out 1.5 months after planting. Subsequently, it is repeated once a week.For each bush, 3 lower leaves are removed, as well as all yellowed leaves.

Features of cultivation and possible difficulties

Seeds of the Batyanya variety should be planted for seedlings 2 months before planting in a garden bed or greenhouse. If you do this ahead of schedule, the tomatoes will lose the first clusters on which the largest fruits ripen.

Bushes need support. Without a garter they will break under their own weight.

Diseases and pests

Batyanya is an early variety. This prevents late blight, which develops in late summer when the weather is hot and humid, from infecting tomatoes. These tomatoes may be affected by Fusarium, Vercillium or Alternaria. And also be exposed to pests:

• beetle larvae;
• wireworm;
• aphids;
• mole crickets;
• scoops;
• whiteflies.

Irrigation at the ripening stage with a special infusion will help protect tomatoes from insects and fungal infections. To prepare it, 500 g of garlic are passed through a meat grinder and poured into 5 liters of warm water. Leave for 15 minutes and strain. The product is diluted with water 3:100 and watered with a watering can.

The nuances of growing in open ground and in a greenhouse

Growing in a greenhouse allows you to get a larger volume of harvest - from 1 sq. m harvest 17 kg of fruit. In open ground you can get 6-12 kg. 5 bushes per 1 square meter are planted in the garden bed. m, in the greenhouse - 3 plants. Tomatoes are planted in a low-wind area. In greenhouse conditions, ventilation is required when it is hot.

Harvesting and application

The crop ripens three months after germination. The fruits are harvested in warm, dry weather. It is recommended to do this in the morning, when the dew has disappeared. At this time, tomatoes acquire the greatest elasticity.

Salads, ketchups, lecho, pasta and juices are prepared from Batyan tomatoes.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The variety has more advantages than disadvantages. This:

• early maturation;
• large fruits;
• high transportability;
• unpretentiousness to growing conditions;
• resistance to late blight;
• high yield rates;
• good taste characteristics.

The disadvantages include the need for staking tomatoes.

Farmer reviews

Tatiana: “Completely unexpectedly I discovered Batyanya, who had turned pink on the vine. It turned out to be the earliest, earlier than early ripening hybrids. Weight – 350 g.”

Marina, Kaliningrad: “If you grow, so to speak, to get an early harvest of tasty tomatoes, and not just red ones with a tomato taste, then it’s better to grow the Batyanya tomato. And early and of good taste and less productive.”

Conclusion

Batyanya is a high-yielding variety bred for cultivation in the climatic conditions of Siberia. But thanks to the unpretentiousness of these tomatoes, they can also grow in the southern region. The peculiarity of the variety is the weight of the tomatoes, which reach 600-700 g. They also have good taste and resistance to transportation.