How to plant gooseberry seedlings correctly

Gooseberries are called “northern grapes”. Indeed, the taste of this berry is somewhat reminiscent of grapes. At the same time, the shrub has high frost resistance and is able to grow and produce large fruits even in regions with cold climates. It is easy to care for and resistant to negative environmental factors.

Most often, gooseberries are propagated by seedlings, which are grown independently from plant parts or purchased from specialized nurseries. Most gardeners recommend planting shrubs in the spring. In this case, the plant has time to get stronger and take root before the onset of cold weather. How to plant gooseberries correctly and why it is better to do it in the spring - read on.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring and autumn planting

Planting gooseberry seedlings possible both in spring and autumn. In both cases, it is important to choose the right time frame for the work and follow the basic rules.

Planting dates vary for different regions. If in the northern zone of Russia (in Siberia and the Urals) frosts often recede only in mid-April, then in the southern regions (Krasnodar Territory) the soil freezes already in early March. In the middle zone of our country (Moscow, Moscow region) this usually happens at the end of March or beginning of April.

The time for planting gooseberries depends not only on the region. When choosing, the climatic conditions of a particular year are also taken into account. If frosts are expected earlier, then plants will have to be planted earlier in the fall and vice versa.The same rules apply for spring planting.

Spring planting is good for beginning gardeners. In this case, you can visually assess the readiness of the soil for planting. The seedling is planted in a permanent place when the soil has thawed, but the buds have not yet begun to swell.

Important! When planting gooseberries in the spring, it is important to take into account that if planting is carried out late (when leaves appear on the trees and it is hot outside), then the seedling may not take root.

In autumn, gooseberries are planted five weeks before the first frost. This is usually done at the end of October. This way the plant will have time to take root, but will not start throwing out new leaves.

When planting in the fall, you have to rely on weather forecasts, which are not always correct. If cold weather comes earlier, the seedling will not take root and will die in the winter. If the heat stays on too long, the plant will begin to throw out shoots and shoots that will freeze in the winter.

Choosing a variety for spring planting

All varieties of gooseberries are suitable for spring planting. The crop is chosen depending on the climatic conditions of the region, as well as the characteristics of the plant.

Frost-resistant varieties are suitable for Siberia and the Urals. They are resistant to adverse factors and easily tolerate cold winters. As a rule, their berries are not too large and sweet, but there are exceptions. The list contains several of the most popular options:

1. Seedling Lefora. An early variety, seedlings and cuttings of which quickly take root. The berries are medium-sized, sweet, red. Productivity is high. There is resistance to fungal infections.
2. Malachite. Mid-season variety. Produces large berries of bright green color, with a “tan” on the side facing the sun. The taste is sweet, with sourness. Drought resistant.There is a high immunity to powdery mildew.
3. Altaic golden. Late frost-resistant variety. Produces large, yellow-green, oval-shaped berries with a waxy coating. The taste of the fruit is sweet and sour.

Varieties for the central regions should also be resistant to cold weather, but to a lesser extent than for the northern ones. The list contains several varieties that are often grown by gardeners in Moscow and the Moscow region:

1. Eaglet. Early ripening variety. The berries are dark purple, almost black. The taste is sweet and sour. There are no thorns on the shoots. There is immunity to anthracnose and powdery mildew.
2. African. Early fruiting variety. The fruits are almost black, medium in size. The taste is sweet and sour with a slight aftertaste of black currant. Resistant to powdery mildew.
3. Spring. Ripening dates are early. The berries are large, sweet, yellow-green in color. It is resistant to temperature changes, powdery mildew, and septoria.

For the southern regions, any varieties of gooseberries are suitable. Variants that produce the largest and sweetest berries grow here.

Selection of quality planting material

In order for the gooseberry to take root, not get sick and give an early harvest, it is important to choose a healthy seedling. When purchasing planting material, pay attention to the following parameters:

1. Root system. A high-quality seedling must have at least three skeletal roots. The presence of small additional roots is important; they should not be dry or rotten. The root system is checked for the absence of spots, growths, holes and other traces of diseases and pests. The fresh root at the break should be light and moist.
2. Size. The optimal height of a gooseberry seedling is 40 cm.
3. Ground part. Be sure to have 2-3 shoots. They should not be dry.The absence of cracks, peeling, stains, growths, etc. is important.

Seedlings come with a closed (in an earthen coma) or open (bare roots) root system. The second option is preferable, as it takes root better.

Planting a seedling

To grow a healthy, productive gooseberry bush, it is important to pay enough attention to planting. Preparation for work is no less important.

Preparation of planting material

Before planting a seedling, it is prepared. Plants with a closed root system are watered with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and after two hours - with a root formation stimulator (“Kornevin”).

Seedlings with an open root system are first soaked for 2 hours in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then for 12 hours in a growth stimulator. Before planting, the roots are dipped in a clay mash.

Before processing, the root system is inspected. Remove all dry small roots. Do the same with the above-ground part of the bush, cutting off all dry and damaged shoots.

Before planting, trim the top part so that 2-3 buds remain on each shoot. If the root system is well developed, up to five buds are left.

Site selection and soil preparation

Gooseberry is a light-loving plant. If you choose a well-lit area for it, the berries will be especially sweet. Semi-shaded areas are also suitable. You cannot plant seedlings in the shade, as this will reduce the yield.

Gooseberries are planted on flat areas, but they feel best on a hill. Experienced gardeners even make hills artificially.

The plant should not be placed in lowlands, on marshy soils, or in areas where moisture constantly stagnates. In such places the plant will often get sick and die.

Groundwater should not be located too close to the surface (closer than 1.5 m). It is not recommended to plant gooseberries near currants, as they are affected by the same diseases and pests.

When planting in spring, the soil is prepared in the fall. The area under the gooseberries is dug up and cleared of weeds. The soil is mixed with 6 kg of humus or rotted manure, 30 g of superphosphate, 25 g of potash fertilizers.

The optimal acidity for the culture is medium and slightly low, pH 5.5-6.5. Even slightly acidic soil will negatively affect the growth of gooseberries. Acidic soil (pH less than 5) is “deoxidized” using ash or dry lime. Lime is applied in the spring to a depth of 25-30 cm and poured well. The effect of this method is long-lasting, so it is repeated every 4-6 years.

Important. To increase acidity in highly alkaline soils, use a special fertilizer - marshy peat.

In the spring, the soil is dug up again. The place where the holes will be dug is watered with a hot solution of copper sulfate for disinfection (3 g per 10 liters of water).

Step-by-step instructions for planting seedlings

Planting gooseberries in a container with a closed root system and seedlings with an open one has some differences. However, the general system of actions will be the same.

Step-by-step instructions on how to plant gooseberries in spring:

1. Dig holes for gooseberries with a diameter and depth of 50x50 cm - 60x60 cm. The soil removed from the hole is mixed with a bucket of compost, 5 kg of lowland peat, 0.4 kg of bone meal, 0.2 kg of ash.
2. An earthen mound is formed in the center of the hole. If the seedling has a closed root system, then simply fill the hole one third with soil mixture.
3. The seedling is placed in the hole, evenly distributing the root system around the mound. Plants from the container are simply transferred to the hole.
4. The depression is filled with soil, compacting the layers one by one. At this stage, the root collar is not buried.
5. The plant is watered abundantly with warm water. If the soil has settled, add more soil.
6. A circle with a diameter of 1 m is made around the gooseberry. Sides are made along the edges
7. The seedling is mulched with sawdust, tree bark or peat. Some gardeners recommend raising the mulch 6 cm above the root collar.

Care after landing

To ensure that gooseberries do not get sick and develop properly, they need to be properly cared for.

Step by step guide care:

1. Preventive treatments. The bushes must be scalded with boiling water when the snow has already melted, but the buds have not yet swelled. It is sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). The same treatments are carried out in the summer before fruit formation if there have been long rains and significant cooling has been observed.
2. Watering. Water the plant only if the summer was rainy without precipitation. During one watering, two buckets of water are consumed for young plants and up to five buckets of water for mature spreading bushes.
3. Loosening, mulching and weeding. Around young gooseberries, it is necessary to constantly clear the soil of weeds, which are considered carriers of diseases and pests. After each watering and precipitation, the soil is loosened, destroying the earthen crust, which prevents normal root air exchange. To reduce the amount of loosening and weeding, gooseberries are mulched. This layer will also protect the plant from diseases, pests, cold weather, and moisture stagnation.
4. Fertilizers. During the season, fertilizing is applied three times. The first is when the leaves bloom. Use 1 tbsp. l. urea and 1 tbsp. l. nitroammophoska, diluted in a bucket of water.The second fertilizing is applied after the gooseberries have faded. To prepare the solution, dilute 3 tbsp in a bucket of water. l. potassium chloride, 3 tbsp. l. ammonium nitrate, 4 tbsp. l. superphosphate. The last time the soil around the bush is fertilized before wintering is by digging 10 kg of rotted manure into it.
5. Trimming. Every year in spring or autumn pruning the plant. Remove old, dry, damaged and aged branches. They leave strong young shoots directed outward from the bush. An adult plant should consist of an average of 20 healthy branches.
6. Preparing for winter. In autumn, the soil around the bush is cleared of leaves and other plant debris and loosened well. Then they mulch, lifting the mulch as high as possible. In winter, if possible, the plant is covered with snow. If the season is cold but not snowy, spunbond is used.

Harvest and storage

Gooseberries give first fruit two years after planting. Some varieties are able to set berries within a year.

Harvest dates depend on the variety. The berries are picked as they ripen. Some housewives prefer to use unripe fruits for cooking.

Fresh gooseberries are stored in the refrigerator. To prepare berries for future use, they are frozen, processed into jams and sauces, and even dried.

Conclusion

Spring planting of gooseberry seedlings is more preferable for beginning gardeners. In this case it is easier to calculate the lines. Before the onset of cold weather, the plant will have time to take root and get stronger, which will help it easily survive the winter.

The technology for planting gooseberries in spring and autumn is no different. The main thing is to follow the basic rules and carry out all the necessary preparatory work.