How to properly prune raspberries in spring: a step-by-step guide

Raspberries, despite their unpretentiousness, require annual pruning, if possible not only in autumn, but also in spring. The latter helps the bushes and ovaries to form correctly. In this article we will tell you how to properly prune raspberries to get a good harvest.

Why prune raspberries in spring?

Raspberries are usually pruned in the fall after fruiting. In the spring it is done for sanitary or shaping purposes, removing frozen, damaged and broken shoots. The main goal of the procedure is to improve flowering and fruiting.

Is this necessary?

Raspberries - a biennial plant that blooms and bears fruit in its second year. Three-year-old shoots are only thickening landings, take away the strength of the young and reduce the overall yield. If it was not possible to carry out the procedure in the fall, it is worth moving it to the spring rather than not carrying it out at all. There is no point in leaving three-year-old shoots on the bush.

Reference. Exist remontant varieties, which bear fruit already in the first year of life, so their pruning is carried out in a special mode.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring pruning

Main advantages:

• removal of dead, damaged shoots allows young shoots to grow;
• prevention of fungal diseases and damage by insect pests;
• increase in yield.

There are almost no downsides to spring pruning; its only drawback is that in the spring it is difficult to distinguish two-year-old and three-year-old shoots from each other, since they are all covered with a brownish crust.

Timing for spring pruning

Spring pruning of raspberries is carried out before the buds open and the juices begin to flow. The temperature should be positive during the day, and there should be no soil frosts at night. In different regions, the timing varies depending on weather conditions.

The average values ​​are:

• southern regions - early April;
• middle zone - early May;
• The Urals and Siberia - the second ten days of May.

Some gardeners prune raspberries after the buds open, because then it is easy to see which shoots are alive and which are dead. However, this is fraught with infection of the sections with fungal infections.

Types of procedure

Depending on the purpose, pruning is divided into several types.

Forming

This pruning is carried out for the aesthetic formation of the raspberry tree, simplifies harvesting, and provides access to light and air to the stems and leaves. This pruning also improves the access of pollinating insects to flowers.

During formative pruning, not only fruit-bearing, diseased and dried shoots are removed, but also young shoots, since their growth requires a lot of resources from the plant. All broken and frozen shoots are subjected to the procedure; those needed for fruiting are shortened to the first bud.

A significant disadvantage is that young shoots are removed, which could begin to bear fruit next year.

Sanitary

During sanitary pruning, all non-viable, weak and thin shoots are removed. The procedure is easier to carry out after the buds have swollen - then it becomes clear which of them have frozen out.

After removing dead branches, the shoots of the second year of life are shortened to the first bud. This stimulates better fruiting and limits their growth. 5-6 of the strongest shoots are left per bush.

Double according to Sobolev

Double pruning, or pruning according to Sobolev, is carried out in several stages. The first procedure is carried out after the formation of leaves in early June on young shoots of the current year, cutting or pinching the top to a height of 12-15 cm. Shoots before pinching are called zero. This stimulates dormant lateral buds and active branching of the zero shoot.

The second time the procedure is carried out in the autumn of the same year or the following spring, cutting off the crown of the branching shoots by 12-15 cm. The first or second green buds, counting from the crown, can serve as a guide.

Reference. This type is only suitable for unthickened plantings, since the raspberries will branch heavily. Double cutting is not suitable remontant varieties.

How to properly prune raspberries in spring for a good harvest

Pruning is a simple but important manipulation that requires a competent approach in terms of inventory and timing. The shoots are removed to the very root, leveling the stump with the ground if possible.

Required materials and tools

For pruning you will need:

• sharp pruning shears or knife;
• rake;
• lopper;
• gloves.

Before the procedure, the pruning shears must be sterilized with steam or soaked for 15 minutes in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Step-by-step instruction

The cutting process is extremely simple:

1. Use a rake to remove all fallen leaves and lightly loosen the surface layer of soil.
2. The selected stem is separated from the main bush and slightly bent to the side.
3. The pruning shears or knife are placed as close to the ground as possible.Branches that are too thick are trimmed with a lopper.
4. Cut the branch with a straight cut.
5. The top of young shoots is cut off to the first bud.

The nuances of pruning remontant varieties

Remontant raspberries, unlike ordinary varieties, bear fruit already in the first year of life of the branches and bloom twice per season, so they require special care when pruning in spring. If it was done incorrectly, the bushes will have reduced flowering and productivity.

Pruning of remontant varieties can be done in two ways:

1. Cut out all the shoots at the root before the sap begins to flow. This results in a single but abundant autumn harvest.
2. Remove all shoots of the second year of life, leaving only annual ones.

These raspberry varieties are not pinched, as this inhibits the formation of the ovary.

Tree-like

Pruning a raspberry tree is practically no different from that of an ordinary bush raspberry. To give the desired shape, all branches are removed, leaving 2-3 of the strongest and healthiest. The tops of shoots that have grown a meter are shortened, allowing lateral buds to grow. Next spring (or autumn), the side shoots are shortened to 30-40 cm. This pruning is similar to the Sobolev scheme.

Post-procedure care

Post-procedure care pruning includes pest control and fertilizing. The raspberry tree can also be tied up or left free according to the gardener’s wishes.

Disinfection is carried out with Bordeaux mixture, spraying the plants with a 1% solution. The treatment is repeated after the kidneys awaken. The third procedure is carried out in the fall after harvesting to avoid the entry of insect pest larvae into the soil.

Top dressing

Any complex fertilizer applied according to the instructions is suitable as a top dressing. You can fertilize with mature humus at the rate of 12 liters per 3 bushes. Humus is scattered between the bushes. On nitrogen-poor soils, nitroammophoska or saltpeter (40 g) is additionally added with the addition of potassium humate (5 g), diluted in 10 liters of water. After applying nitrogen fertilizers, additionally scatter 1 tbsp between the bushes. wood ash in each interval.

Tips and tricks from experienced gardeners

Experienced gardeners recommend:

1. Trim the shoots completely, going deep into the bush, otherwise the raspberry tree will grow and the yield will sharply decrease.
2. Intertwined branches should not be left - this leads to rapid disease in the plantings.
3. Dry shoots need to be cut off at the root. The quantity and quality of the harvest depends on this.
4. The largest branches are removed first, then the smaller ones. This is done carefully so as not to damage healthy buds on young branches.

Conclusion

Raspberries are an unpretentious, fast-growing shrub that bears fruit in almost any conditions. However, in order to get large, sweet berries, the plant needs regular care and feeding. Timely pruning allows the bushes to form correctly and serves to redistribute vital forces to flowering and fruiting, rather than the formation of green parts.