Why did rust appear on gooseberries and what to do to get rid of it

Gooseberry bushes unpretentious in care. However, for some gardeners, the plant bears fruit abundantly without care year after year, while others constantly struggle with pests and diseases. The most common disease in the Russian climate is rust on gooseberries. What to do with pathogens, how to protect shrubs and how to recognize the disease in a timely manner? Detailed answers to these questions are in our article.

Rust on gooseberries - causes

Deformation of gooseberry leaves, the appearance of red spots on them or fruits indicates the activity of pathogenic fungi of the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia. The disease is popularly called rust. The disease is quite common and dangerous for the plant. In terms of severity, gooseberry rust is equivalent to powdery mildew. If measures are not taken in a timely manner, it can harm all fruit-bearing bushes and destroy the crop.

Fungal microorganisms live in the host body under anaerobic conditions. Vectors can be plant debris, weeds or intermediate plants.

For reference. A pile of autumn leaves left in the garden is the most common refuge in which pathogenic microorganisms survive winter period.

With the arrival of spring, spores are carried over long distances by the wind. Warm weather and high humidity levels stimulate the process of plant infection.

How to recognize

The spore-bearing stage of development in rust fungi appears on the leaves and stems of plants. Brown rusty spots appear in the form of lines on the infected parts.

Over the summer, they ripen, dry out and cracks form on them, through which spores spill out, easily spreading to nearby plants.

Among the secondary signs:

• leaf deformation;
• premature drying of the plant;
• deformed and dry berries.

If you ignore the disease, the gooseberry bush dies after a few weeks or months.

It is recommended to carefully inspect gooseberry plantings once every 7 days.

Types of rust

Gooseberry planting are susceptible to two types of infections: columnar and goblet, the latter being more common.

Both types of rust affect gooseberry leaves, but still have distinctive features.

glass-shaped

Orange spots with spore pads are observed on the leaves of the affected plant. Over time, when the spores open, they take the shape of small glasses. A light touch or shaking breaks the integrity of the glasses, and the spores easily spread to other plants.

Fruits with goblet rust are most often deformed, quickly dry out and fall off.

Attention. With this type of disease, the intermediate host is sedge, so you should avoid planting shrubs in places where it accumulates.

Columnar

Peak development occurs in July. It appears in the form of small yellowish spots on the fruits, the upper plate of foliage and yellow-orange growths on the bottom of the plate.

The close proximity of shrubs to cedars and pines in most cases leads to infection, becausethese trees act as intermediate hosts for columnar rust.

How to get rid of the problem

Shoots and foliage with large infected areas are removed and burned. The remaining bushes require treatment with drugs. First of all, gardeners resort to the help of biological products - they are safe for the crop and increase the plant’s immunity, additionally nourishing it.

As an alternative, folk remedies are used, but they are effective when the area of ​​crop damage is small and the pest is detected in a timely manner. In extreme cases, when the above remedies fail, chemicals are used.

Biological products

Among agrotechnical biological products for individual farms, two products are distinguished.

"Trichodermin"

A harmless and safe drug that does not affect the taste and nutritional qualities of the crop. The fruits can be eaten on the same day after treatment with the product. Available in the form of an aqueous suspension and dry powder.

When using powder, the medicinal composition is prepared according to the following recipe: a package (10 g) is dissolved in 1 liter of warm water, adding the powder gradually and stirring continuously. Then leave for 1-2 hours at a temperature not lower than 15°C. The prepared solution is used within 6 hours.

Important. Biological products are unilaterally compatible with chemicals, that is, chemicals can be used after processing microbiological products. But it is recommended to resort to the help of biological products after treatment with chemicals no earlier than 14 days after the end of the protective effect of the chemical reagents.

“Fitosporin M”

Systemic drug based on spore culture. Can be used at any stage of plant development. The manufacturer guarantees the safety of the product for the harvest even on the day of treatment.Sold in the form of an aqueous suspension, powder and paste.

The plant is treated with “Fitosporin” only in cloudy weather or after sunset, since the product does not tolerate bright sunlight. The powder is diluted 2 hours before treatment strictly according to the instructions. When using paste, prepare a concentrated solution, which is diluted before processing.

If the mixture is being prepared for spraying, then liquid soap can be added to it at the rate of 1 ml per 10 liters. This will ensure better adhesion of the drug.

For reference. “Fitosporin” is diluted exclusively in boiled, melt or rain water. The chlorine content in tap water is detrimental to the bacteria contained in the preparation.

Traditional methods

Of the many folk methods, gardeners most often practice treatment with ash, baking soda, soda ash, soap and boiling water. These methods are absolutely harmless, but not always effective. It is more rational to consider them as preventive measures.

Boiling water

Only dormant bushes are processed, immediately after the snow melts. If the buds are already swollen, this type of treatment is not suitable. In order for the infection to die and the bush to remain unharmed, it is recommended not to water, but to spray boiling water.

Wet all shoots thoroughly, but do not overdo it, as there is a high probability of premature flowering of the bush. You can enhance the effectiveness of boiling water by adding soda or salt to it (3-5 tbsp per bucket).

Baking and soda ash

An alkaline product is harmful to microorganisms. Use it before the buds open. To prepare the solution, dissolve 100 g of baking soda in 10 liters of water.

Attention. Soda ash is more aggressive, so its dosage is halved (50 g of substance per 10 liters of water).

Laundry soap

Another product with an alkaline reaction, but more effective than soda, because... covers the surface of the plant with a protective film.

To prepare the solution:

1. Grate 50 g of soap.
2. Pour 2 liters of boiling water and stir.
3. After complete dissolution, add another 8 liters of water to the concentrate.
4. Start processing.

Ash

It is used both to combat microorganisms and to feed plants. There are many recipes, they all differ in proportions and technologies: from 100 g to 1.5 kg per 10 liters of boiling water. Pour, leave for several days or boil for 10-15 minutes, strain and pour over.

This method is the most controversial among gardeners due to the difference in the composition of the raw materials burned. Among the disadvantages is the rapid loss of alkaline properties due to many factors (storage in a damp room, the remains of a fire getting wet in the rain, etc.). In this case, it is more appropriate to use the ash as a soil loosening agent.

For reference. You can check the alkaline environment of the ash using litmus paper. If the pH is more than 7-8, then treatment with ash will be effective.