How to properly prune currants in summer and why it is necessary

Spreading currant bushes quickly lose their shape without proper attention. Thickened plantings become an ideal place for the proliferation of fungi and insects. Without pruning, side shoots grow so much that they cover the central branches from the sun and impair the aeration of the entire bush. In this article we will talk about pruning currants in the summer, consider whether it is possible to prune red and white currants, and how to do it correctly.

Why prune currants in summer?

Black, white and red currants are members of the Gooseberry family. Perennial shrubs are popular due to their unpretentiousness in care and the sweet and sour taste of berries. Most often black currants are grown in Russia, less often red and white.

The plants have a compact or spreading crown, depending on the variety, the height reaches 1.5 m. The bushes actively develop up to 2 years, then the set of green mass stops, and the plants enter the fruiting phase. The first harvest is harvested 2 years after planting, but maximum productivity of currants is observed at the age of 5-6 years.

Currants bear fruit every day; on average, 3–7 kg of berries are collected from a bush. Red and white varieties ripen at the end of June, black - in mid-July. It is after the harvest that they begin to prune the bushes, although disputes about carrying out this procedure in the summer do not fade away.

Many gardeners are sure that summer pruning improves the illumination and aeration of the central shoots, so the lateral young shoots develop better. Adherents of a different opinion do not recommend trimming weak shrubs in the summer, since the procedure inhibits the growth of shoots and enhances the generative development of the plant.

Pruning goals

Summer pruning is aimed at changing the direction of shoot growth. Thanks to this, the bushes look attractive and neat, the berries ripen large and sweet.

Gardeners themselves decide whether to prune in the summer or postpone until the fall. However, the currants survive the procedure without loss. Thanks to proper formation, it is possible to avoid fungal diseases and achieve maximum productivity.

If you ignore pruning, the bushes thicken over time, and dry dead branches block access to light and air. This causes the berries to become smaller, the flower stalks and ovaries become smaller, and the bushes age prematurely.

Formative and rejuvenating pruning of currants is carried out in spring and autumn. At the same time, dry, diseased, damaged and fruit-bearing branches are removed, and the growth of future young shoots is set. Autumn pruning is carried out after the bushes have shed their leaves.

It is important to allow assimilates from old branches to flow into the root system. In winter, the plant will receive vital substances from reserves.

Timing for pruning

Experienced gardeners recommend performing exclusively sanitary pruning of currants after harvesting. The exact timing of the procedure is not provided; it is better to focus on the climatic characteristics of the growing region.

Reference. The procedure is performed in dry weather. Dry and sun-warmed shoots are easier to prune.

The approximate timing of pruning after fruiting is from July to September. In the south, the procedure is performed from mid-June to early July, in the northern and central regions - from August.

Favorable days

Adherents of gardening according to the phases of the moon advise adhering to the lunar calendar.

Favorable days for pruning currants in 2020:

• June: 1–6, 8, 12, 13, 17–19, 22, 23, 26–28, 30;
• July: 1–3, 7–12, 14–18, 22–31;
• August: 1, 2, 6, 7, 10–16, 20–26, 28, 29;
• September: 1–3, 6–13, 18–24, 29, 30.

Favorable days for pruning in 2021:

• June: 2, 3, 6–8, 11–13, 16, 19–25, 29, 30;
• July: 4–8, 13–17, 19–23, 27, 28, 31;
• August: 1–6, 10–15, 17–19, 23, 27–31;
• September: 1–3, 8–13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 24–30.

How to prune currants correctly

When pruning currants in summer, it is important to use a sharp, disinfected tool and follow the sequence of removing branches.

Required materials and tools

Equipment for pruning bushes is pre-disinfected to prevent fungal infections.

Used for gardening work:

• garden scissors (secateurs) for removing young growth;
• lopper for cutting thick branches;
• knife for correcting uneven areas;
• rake for collecting shoots and leaves;
• medical alcohol, vodka, kerosene, 3% solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate for disinfecting equipment.

Step-by-step pruning instructions

Currant pruning technology:

1. Remove all diseased, old, moss-covered, dry and damaged branches, as well as those that are 4-5 years old.
2. Branches that are strongly inclined and lying on the ground are pruned, since in summer they lack sunlight and do not bear fruit.
3. Zero young replacement shoots are shortened by 1/3 above the buds for better branching.
4. Renew 2-3-year-old branches: remove one-year growth, weak side shoots with a small number of buds to stimulate the growth of the remaining branches.
5. The tops of young growth on 2-3 year old branches above the buds are trimmed for better branching.
6. Second-order branches longer than 40–50 cm are shortened.
7. Remove young growth directed to the center of the bush to prevent thickening.

A black hole in the center of a cut branch indicates a glassworm infestation. Such a shoot is completely removed.

Features of pruning black, red and white currants

The red and white varieties have almost the same bush structure and type of fruiting. In these plants, 7-8 year old branches are considered old, and the peak of fruiting occurs at 5 years. It is recommended to start formative pruning of bushes at the end of July, after harvesting.

Pruning red currants involves:

• removal of all internal young shoots shading fruiting branches;
• pruning old fruit-bearing branches above the level of the strongest side shoot;
• cutting out zero shoots emerging directly from the soil around the bush (they can be dug in to get layering);
• removal of damaged, dry and diseased shoots.

A properly formed red currant bush should have up to 25 branches 1–8 years old.

The principle of pruning black currants is slightly different. This is due to the fact that more berries ripen on two-year-old shoots. Therefore, it is important to completely remove old branches (over 5 years old) and pinch out annual stems. Some gardeners recommend combining formative and sanitary pruning.

Reference. Late varieties of black currant bear fruit in August, so the summer procedure is postponed to September - October.

It is forbidden to shorten the tops of black currants too much: this leads to the loss of most of the harvest. This procedure is carried out with red and white varieties.

Nuances for bushes of different ages

Currants are difficult to tolerate pruning; it is very stressful for them. If during the procedure there are breaks and other damage on the shoots, the plant will direct all its efforts to heal them. Therefore, it is extremely important to use a sharply sharpened tool in your work.

The principle of pruning currants also depends on its age:

1. After planting the seedling, remove all branches above 4 buds from the base of the soil. Next year, at least 4–8 shoots from the remaining buds will appear on the bush.
2. After 1 year, pinch the tops of all young shoots 1/3 above the buds.
3. After 2 years, pinch out all zero shoots and parts of skeletal branches. On two-year-old branches, one-year growth and strong lateral branches are removed, leaving only strong shoots with a large number of buds to enhance the growth of the remaining branches. To stimulate branching, cut off all the tops of the remaining growth of the first and second order above the buds.
4. After 3 years, all thickening shoots are cut off.
5. In the 4th year and beyond, senescent shoots are formed. At the end of the season, all old branches are cut off at the root, the remaining four-year-old shoots are shortened according to the principle of a three-year-old seedling. Each year, 3–6 zero replacement shoots are left.

Post-procedure care

Currants love moisture and respond to sufficient watering with a good harvest.. During the period of fruit formation, the crop feels its maximum need for liquid. Excessively dry soil causes the berries to shrink and fall off. Water is poured under the root in dry weather once every 10 days, spending 50–60 liters per bush.Spraying on leaves is not practiced as it leads to the development of powdery mildew.

After each glaze the soil in the tree trunk circle is loosened to improve aeration of the root system. They do this extremely carefully: currants have a superficial root system, the suction roots are barely covered with soil. To reduce the frequency of loosening, the area is covered with a 6–8 cm layer of mulch (straw, hay, peat). Mulch inhibits the growth of weeds and retains moisture in the soil. As plant residues decay, nutrients penetrate into the soil along with water.

After summer pruning, currants are fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (70–100 g of phosphorus, 30–50 g of potassium or 100–300 g of complex fertilizers per 1 m²). Compost and humus are applied once every 3 years, 10 kg per bush. Brings particular benefit feeding urea solution (3 matchboxes per 10 liters of water per 1 bush). Plants older than 4 years are fertilized with urea in smaller quantities: 25–30 g per bush. Fertilize in 2 doses with an interval of 14 days.

Advice from experienced gardeners

When growing currants, beginners encounter some difficulties, which the advice of experienced gardeners will help them cope with:

1. Removing a large number of shoots is the most common mistake during summer pruning currants Remember that old, diseased, damaged shoots lying on the ground and annual thickening growth must be removed.
2. In July and August, active sap flow begins, so after removing thick branches, treat the cuts with garden varnish.
3. When pruning red and white currants, do not remove 2-3-year-old shoots: they branch well without additional pruning.
4. Leave 9-12 shoots on each bush at 1-3 years of age to increase yield.
5. In the middle of July feed the currant bushes organic: 1 liter of mullein per 10 liters of water or 0.5 liters of bird droppings infusion per 10 liters of water. Consumption for 1 bush - 2-3 buckets.
6. In order not to carry water for irrigation in buckets to the site, especially if the plantation is large, take a hose, lower it into the bucket and note how long it takes for it to become full. Multiply this time by the required number of buckets. For example, if the container is filled in 1 minute, 1 bush requires 5 buckets - accordingly, hold the hose under the plant for 5 minutes. To better absorb water into the soil, keep the pressure low.

Conclusion

Summer pruning of currants is carried out after harvesting. The timing of the procedure varies depending on the region of cultivation: in the south, bushes are cut in June - July, in the northern regions and the middle zone - in August. Red and white currants are pruned in September.

In the work, a sharply sharpened, disinfected instrument is used and all old, diseased, dry and damaged branches are removed, as well as annual growth that thickens the central branches. Further care consists of watering, applying organic, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and a moderate amount of nitrogen.