How should grapes be planted in the fall?

Farmers have different opinions about when to plant grape bushes - in autumn or spring. Spring planting eliminates the risk of young shoots freezing. However, winter plants have more stable immunity and quickly enter the growing season.

The article discusses the features of the autumn growing method. grapes.

The best grape varieties for planting in autumn

For growing before winter select varieties that are most resistant to low temperatures and intended for cultivation in a specific region. Frost-resistant varieties with early ripening are suitable for the southern and middle zones. Late-ripening plants are best left for planting in the spring.

They take into account the ripening period of the bunches, the crop’s immunity to disease, drought, resistance to freezing, productivity and ease of care. It is recommended to purchase planting material in special stores and nurseries.

Experienced winegrowers recommend the following varieties:

• Isabel;
• Cardinal;
• Transfiguration;
• Lady fingers;
• Delight;
• Julia;
• Fantasy;
• Muscat Azos.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Successful cultivation of grape bushes begins with the selection of high-quality planting material. There are several ways to propagate the crop: seedlings, seeds, cuttings.

Important! In order for the bushes to better adapt to climatic conditions, local grapes are chosen.

Regardless of the growing method, follow the general rules for choosing plants:

• the root system of the seedling contains 3–6 young shoots with heel roots up to 15 cm long;
• the trunk reaches 40–55 cm in height with a stem thickness of 8 mm;
• the trunk has green shoots up to 20 cm long and up to 4 buds;
• the color of the shoots is bright green, the color of the trunk is rich brown: this indicates the strength of the plant and its resistance to damage;
• buds, roots and trunk without damage, root section white;
• the age of the seedling is up to 2 years, since old bushes do not take root well or do not produce the desired harvest;
• bushes with a closed root system (an open one must have an earthen ball on the roots);
• the trunk and leaves are not damaged, there are no traces of fungus or other diseases;
• planting seeds are hard to the touch, beige-brown in color with white liquid under the shell.

Planting material is prepared in different ways:

1. Seedling roots 2 days before planting, soak for 12–24 hours in boiled water at room temperature with a growth stimulator diluted in it. Immediately before planting, the upper roots are removed, the lower ones are shortened by 1-2 cm. The shoots are trimmed, leaving 3-4 buds, and the roots are dipped in a solution of clay with humus. The bushes are treated with any fungicide.
2. To check seeds They are lowered into water to test their viability: those that float are unsuitable for sowing, those that sink to the bottom are healthy. Selected specimens are subjected to stratification: placed in water for a day so that they separate, or placed in damp nylon bags, wrapped in polyethylene and sent to the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment. Periodically, the material is inspected and washed to avoid rotting.After 50–60 days, when cracks appear on the seeds, they are ready to be planted in the ground.
3. Chubuki selected during grape pruning. Branches 30–40 cm long with well-developed buds are selected, soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for several hours, then washed with clean water and dried. Next, cut 1-2 cm on both sides, place it in a solution with a growth stimulator for 2-3 days and continue to germinate in clean water at a temperature of +24...+26°C until roots 7-8 cm long appear.

Landing dates

The main condition for the correct formation of grape bushes is compliance with planting dates. In this case, the climatic conditions in the region must be taken into account.

Late-cultivated bushes do not take root well and may not survive the winter without having time to adapt to weather conditions. The earth gives back the heat accumulated over the summer to bushes planted on time, so the seedlings will get stronger over the winter and enter the growing season in the spring faster.

The planting date is selected so that 30–45 days remain before the first frost, the daytime air temperature is +15…+16°C, and the nighttime temperature does not fall below +5…+6°C

For central Russia and the Moscow region this is the period from the beginning to the end of October, for the southern regions - mid-October - early November. In the Leningrad region, seedlings are planted from late August to early September; in Siberia and the Urals, the first half of September is suitable for this.

The period is designed for planting young bushes; for divided plants and layering, the period is postponed to 2 weeks later.

How to plant grapes in the fall

Planting a crop before winter requires compliance with a number of important conditions. At first glance, cultivation seems excessively labor-intensive, but in reality it is quite accessible even to beginners.

Selecting a location

The choice of site is approached responsibly, since it depends on whether the plants will survive the winter and how soon they will delight the owner with sweet berries.

When choosing a location, consider the following points:

1. The vineyard is not placed in northern areas - it is better to choose a sufficiently lit place on the south side, not far from the wall of the house or fence. A wall heated during the day will share heat with the bushes, and cold northern winds will not damage the seedlings.
2. Tall trees, spreading bushes and fruit and berry crops are not grown nearby. The optimal distance between them is at least 4 m.
3. A ravine or lowland, where the air temperature is always lower than at higher elevations, is not suitable. Do not plant grapes on swampy lands or areas with dense clay soil.
4. Planted on well-loosened, organic-rich soil containing phosphorus and potassium compounds. Avoid areas with groundwater at a distance of 1.5 m from the roots.

Required materials and tools

Before planting, prepare a shovel, a bucket for watering, and drainage material (crushed stone, broken brick, expanded clay or gravel) in advance. You will need humus and fertilizers, wood ash.

Step-by-step instruction

Cultivation of grape seedlings begins with the preparation of depressions (depth and diameter - 80 cm). They are dug out 3 weeks before planting to allow the soil to settle and ensure the optimal position of the bushes relative to ground level. The top layer of fertile soil, 30–40 cm thick, is laid separately from the rest.

Drainage is placed at the bottom of the holes, and 1/3 of the top layer of soil mixed with 15 kg of humus, 0.5 kg of superphosphate and 1 kg of wood ash is poured on top. The soil is covered with a layer of plain soil to avoid burns to the roots, and filled with 2-3 buckets of water.

After 3 weeks, when the soil settles, pegs are installed in the center of the recesses, to which the bushes are subsequently tied. A portion of nutritious soil is poured nearby, on which the seedlings are placed, placing the roots at an angle of 45° so that they do not break.

Gradually filling the hole with soil, compact each layer until the surface of the earth reaches the neck of the root.

Important! The bushes are watered abundantly, the soil is sprinkled with dry peat, sawdust or dry soil.

To plant cuttings and chibouks, dig a trench 25–35 cm deep and 1 m wide. The bottom is covered with humus, if necessary, a drainage layer is created, and a layer of nutrient soil is made on top. The cuttings are buried 2 buds into the ground, tilted to the south, covered with plastic bottles or film stretched over arcs. The trench is filled with warm water.

What mistakes to avoid

Inexperienced farmers make a number of mistakes that negatively affect the establishment, growth and quality of berries.

Main mistakes:

• use seedlings of an unknown variety that do not correspond to the climatic zone and with a weak root system;
• form an excessively or insufficiently deep hole or trench for planting: the first will slow down the growth of bushes due to low soil temperature, and the second will limit the flow of nutrients and moisture to the seedlings;
• place the bushes close to each other, otherwise the plants will compete for moisture and light, and fungus will appear;
• plant exclusively varieties with the female type of flowering, which leads to crushing of the bunches;
• refuse to water immediately after planting in soil that is damp from rain: even if it rains, watering is required so that air tunnels do not form in the soil layer.

Planting methods

Depending on the type of planting material chosen, the methods of cultivating it differ:

1. Seedlings buried in the soil to the depth of the fourth bud, at a distance of 1–1.5 m from each other. Small mounds are created around the trunks.
2. Cuttings placed in a trench filled with 2-3 buckets of warm water, at a distance of 15–25 cm from each other with a slope to the south, leaving 2 buds on the surface. For quick rooting, cover with film for the first time.
3. Chubuki, germinated and planted in a similar way to cuttings, they are covered with film or plastic bottles with the bottom cut off. This will speed up rooting and protect young plants from cold and damage.
4. Seeds pre-germinate in a small container with humus and sand (1:1), periodically water and fertilize. In May, the sprouts are planted in a larger container and kept on the loggia. Closer to autumn, the plants are hardened off so that they can be transferred to open ground without loss. Planted at a distance of 2–2.5 m in compliance with the basic rules.

Further care

After planting, the bushes are watered; additional fertilizers are not applied. Between moistenings, the soil is carefully loosened so as not to damage the roots.

When frost sets in, the shoots are covered. For the southern regions, an earthen hill 0.5 m high or straw, spruce branches, leaves, or plastic bottles without a bottom is sufficient. In more severe winter conditions, the stems are wrapped in polyethylene, roofing felt or tarpaulin. If this is not enough, the bundle is placed in an earthen tunnel and covered with leaves, sawdust, and spruce branches.

In the spring, before young shoots and leaves appear, a trellis is installed to tie up the plants. This procedure increases yield and reduces the risk of disease development.

Read also:

The best ways to freeze raspberries for the winter correctly.

When and how to prune raspberries correctly in the fall.

How to properly prepare raspberry leaves for tea at home for the winter.

Features of planting depending on the region

To successfully grow grapes in any area, select suitable crop varieties taking into account the climatic characteristics of the region:

• in Siberia, in the Urals, in the Leningrad region, where there are severe frosts, cold-resistant early ripening varieties are planted: Thumbelina, Pinocchio, Siberian Cheryomushka;
• Frost-resistant early crops that are easy to care for and resistant to fungal diseases are suitable for the Middle Zone and Moscow region: Venus, Tenderness, Lunar.

Conclusion

Cultivating young grapes is a labor-intensive process, but quite feasible. By following the rules of planting and care, taking into account the climate in the region, every farmer can grow healthy bushes and get a rich harvest of sweet berries.