How to form a pepper bush: instructions for beginners and common mistakes

Many people believe that caring for bell peppers comes down to regular watering, feeding and protection from diseases and pests. However, there is another measure that can significantly increase the yield of a vegetable - the formation of a bush. Read on to learn how to do this correctly.

Is it necessary to shape sweet bell peppers?

Forming a bush is an effective technique for increasing productivity and size of bell pepper fruits. With the help of formation, the ground volume of the pepper bush is regulated.

Some gardeners ignore this measure, believing that provided favorable conditions are provided, the vegetable will produce a good harvest. However, this is not true for all varieties. Some cannot cope with a large number of fruits on a bush and grow uncontrollably, spending energy on the growth of branches rather than on the fruits, which negatively affects the yield. In addition, the overgrown mass becomes a breeding ground for diseases and pests.

Variety value

The formation of pepper is an obligatory stage of caring for tall varieties and hybrids of this crop, those whose height reaches 1-1.2 m, for example, Cockatoo, Hercules, Apollo, Orange miracle.

It is not necessary to form medium-sized (Anastasia, Greek, Sweet Dragon, Bagel, etc.) and low-growing varieties (Chanterelle, Boneta, Timoshka, Fakir, etc.).

Stages and rules of bush formation

Forming a pepper is not a one-time process of pinching or trimming shoots., and the event consists of several stages.

During the seedling period

Formation begins when the seedling reaches a height of 15-20 cm. As a rule, during this period, the bell pepper sprout divides into two branches, and a bud appears in the middle, which is called the crown. This bud is removed to allow the shoot to continue branching. In the future, fruits will form on each branch, increasing the yield.

In the greenhouse

When planting seedlings in a greenhouse, take into account that the bush should increase in volume by 2-3 branches. Varieties with high bushiness are planted in 3-6 pieces. per 1 sq. m. If bushiness is average - 6-8 bushes per 1 sq. m. At this stage, the pepper is pinched, trimmed, and barren shoots are removed.

Attention! When the bushes take root, they are carefully inspected to identify possible diseases and pest damage. The formation process affects only healthy plants.

First of all, the skeletal branches (first order branches) are determined.. They begin their growth immediately after the central shoot branches. The shoots from the leaf axils are called stepsons. They are removed by pinching.

Skeletal branches of the first order are divided into shoots of the second order - as a rule, there are two of them. Of these, you need to choose the stronger one - it will also be skeletal. Its function is to support the shoots located above. The weaker shoot of the second order is removed, leaving the leaf and fruit.

Skeletal shoots of the second order are divided into shoots of the third order. They are dealt with in the same way: a more developed skeletal branch is selected, the rest are removed by pinching.

Over time, new shoots and leaves are formed on each skeletal shoot. They must be removed gradually (no more than two leaves per day).First of all, the leaves that shade the ovaries are torn off.

All the above procedures are repeated until the plant reaches a height of 1-1.2 m. Then the top of the bush is trimmed to stop growth and redirect all nutrients to the developing fruits. About a month and a half before the end of the harvest, the tops of all skeletal branches are cut off for the same purpose.

If you strictly follow the instructions, the result will be obvious.: 20-25 thick-walled peppers on each formed bush. Unformed plants will have many ovaries and small fruits.

In the open ground

When grown in open ground, only tall varieties of pepper are formed. In medium-sized trees, only the sterile and lower shoots and stepchildren are removed. Low-growing peppers do not need shaping.

If desired, pinch out the central shoots of medium-growing and low-growing varieties to enhance lateral branching.

Reference. Tall species should also be strengthened with lateral branches. To achieve this, the central stems are pinched at a height of 25-30 cm from the soil. The basis of the bush should be no more than five skeletal shoots, the rest should be removed.

The next stages of bush formation involve pinching off excess shoots. From each branch no more than five of the strongest shoots are left. The result is a voluminous bush. When a sufficient number of fruits appear on it, the shoots are pinched or trimmed. The nutrients will be used for further growth of fruits, not branches.

The right tool

To shape the pepper you need standard equipment - garden scissors (secateurs) or knife. The tool must be well sharpened and disinfected with any product containing alcohol or chlorine.

How to form a bush correctly: step-by-step instructions

Only healthy bushes are formed. Clean instruments are used for the procedure to prevent contamination of the seedlings. Formation is the process of selecting a suitable variety or hybrid (only tall ones are used, since when ripe they give a rich harvest of large fruits), followed by planting in a greenhouse or open ground and carrying out pinching, pruning, and pinching procedures.

The formation of a pepper bush consists of several stages. Let's look at each in detail.

Removing the crown bud

The first stage of the formation of the future bush - removal of the crown bud. This must be done when the seedling reaches a height of 15-20 cm. The action ensures proper branching of the plant and also promotes the flow of nutrients to the ovaries.

Removing excess and fruitless shoots

The formation of the pepper bush continues when it grows 10-12 leaves. At this point, excess branches are removed, leaving only skeletal shoots. A similar procedure is carried out with all newly appeared branches.

Over time on the plant empty shoots appear located just below the branching point main shoot. They get rid of them. Leaves that block the light and do not take part in the plant’s nutrition are also removed. The ideal ratio is two leaves per fruit, the remaining leaves are considered redundant.

Dying leaves must also be removed., as they can provoke the development of the disease.

Topping

This stage begins when fruits are formed on the bush.. Correct topping main branches will accelerate the growth of fruits. Pinching (pinching) is the removal of the tip of the shoot.As fruits form on the bush, the growth points on the skeletal branches are pinched. This allows the plant to concentrate all its energy on fruit development.

Reference. The procedure is also carried out as the shoots grow. In the active growth stage, pinch the tops once every two weeks, and in the dormant stage, once a month is sufficient.

Stepsoning

After carrying out all the above procedures, carry out stepsoning — remove the stepsons formed in the internodes and barren buds.

Common Mistakes

Common Mistake - pinching bushes located at a distance of more than 20 cm from each other. When bushes are planted so sparsely, the green mass is left.

Reference. Many gardeners are in a hurry to remove new leaves and shoots. This is also a mistake. No more than two leaves are removed per day. Otherwise, the plant will experience severe stress and may die.

Insufficient attention of the vegetable grower to disinfection of tools, which is used for pinching and pruning, can cause the plant to become infected. Disinfect instruments with alcohol and chlorine-containing preparations.

Another common mistake - pinching and pinching in wet and rainy weather, which again increases the risk of infection. The procedures are carried out in dry weather so that the sections dry faster.

Many gardeners leave a large number of ovaries on the plant., mistakenly believing that fruits are formed from them. In fact, in this case the plant spends energy on developing unnecessary areas.

Is it possible and necessary to pick off the lower leaves?

It is possible, and in some cases necessary, to pick off the lower leaves of the pepper bush.. The feasibility of this measure largely depends on weather conditions.So, in hot and dry weather, the lower leaves are not removed, as they protect the soil from drying out. The sun's rays will quickly destroy a plant without leaves.

If the weather is wet, the lower part of the pepper bush is exposed, since excess moisture accumulates in the leaves, which, in turn, provokes the development of bacterial and fungal infections.

Conclusion

So, when growing peppers, you should not completely rely on nature. The formation of a bush is a necessary measure that greatly facilitates the process of growth and development of the crop. Proper formation of the bush allows you to get a good harvest of large, tasty peppers.