Replanting raspberries in the spring to a new place

Caring for raspberries in the spring includes transplanting to a new place. Such work is not carried out annually, but every few years it is necessary. After all, changing the location allows you to rejuvenate the bush, increase its productivity and resistance to adverse environmental factors.

Transplanting raspberries to a new place in the spring requires certain knowledge. If you have little experience in gardening, it is worth studying the rules for replanting this crop so that the efforts spent are not wasted, but are rewarded in the future with a bountiful harvest of sweet berries.

Why replant raspberries to a new place?

Raspberries, like most other fruit and berry crops, need to be periodically replanted to a new location. This is a mandatory procedure that will keep the raspberry tree in good condition for many years.

There is no need to replant bushes annually. Frequently changing locations will only harm the plants. It is enough to carry out such work once every few years. An experienced gardener is able to determine the optimal period based on the condition of the bushes.

Often, novice gardeners and summer residents refuse to replant, considering the procedure unnecessary, complicated and time-consuming. This mistake sooner or later leads to degeneration of the raspberry tree. In order for the bushes to enjoy a good harvest for a long time, the procedure must be carried out.

Why replant raspberries:

1. Change in soil composition. Over time, the soil becomes depleted and its composition changes.Because of this, the nutrition of the bush is disrupted, and nutrients are supplied in insufficient quantities. Productivity decreases, the taste of fruits deteriorates. Due to the changed composition of the soil, the problem cannot be solved even by applying fertilizers.
2. Thickening of plantings. The root system and the ground part of the bush are growing. This leads to the fact that the plants are in the shade, interfere with each other, and air exchange is disrupted. Such conditions increase the risk of raspberry infection.
3. Aging bush. Over time, raspberries age, throw out fewer young shoots, their yield decreases, and the berries become smaller. When transplanting, the formation of new shoots is stimulated, the bush is rejuvenated.

Transplanting raspberries allows you to rejuvenate the bush, extend its life, reduce the likelihood of being affected by diseases and pests, and improve the quality and quantity of the harvest. When replanting, it is easy to form a new bush shape and choose the best location. This makes the garden more aesthetically pleasing.

Transplant timing

Agronomists recommend replanting raspberries to a new location every 4-10 years. During this time, as a rule, the bushes have time to grow and noticeably deplete the soil. It is not worth replanting them more often unless necessary; it will even harm too young plants.

Advice! Transplanting raspberries to a new place earlier than the specified period may be necessary if the plant is often sick.

When choosing the timing of transplantation, experienced gardeners recommend focusing on the condition of the raspberry tree. If the plants are strong, healthy, not attacked by pests, and bear fruit consistently and well, you can wait to replant, even if the raspberries have been growing in one place for more than 5 years.

Spring is the optimal time for transplantation. An important condition is to carry out the work before the buds open.If young leaves appear on the plants, the procedure is postponed until the next season.

The exact timing of transplantation depends on the region:

• southern regions (Krasnodar) – mid-March – early April;
• central stripe (Moscow region) – mid-April – early May;
• areas with a northern climate (Siberia, Ural) – May.

The timing of transplantation work is influenced by the climatic indicators of a particular year.

Benefits of spring transplantation

Not only spring is suitable for transplanting raspberries, but also autumn. Most gardeners still consider spring to be the most favorable period:

1. It is easier to predict optimal planting times, regardless of how variable the climate in the region is from year to year. It is enough just to wait until the soil warms up to +10°C, but the buds will not have time to wake up yet. Even if the gardener is a little late with replanting, this will not harm the plant. In the autumn, it is more difficult to guess the timing, because in the event of sudden premature frosts there is a risk of death of the recently transplanted plant.
2. If you plant raspberries in a new place in the spring, then by the onset of cold weather they will have time to take root and get stronger. This will allow her to survive the winter. When planting in autumn, you will have to prepare more carefully for wintering.
3. During spring replanting, raspberries are still in a dormant state. In a new place, it actively begins to grow (it is in the spring that plants develop most actively). Thanks to this, the first harvest will be harvested at the end of this summer.

There are no disadvantages to spring planting. Therefore, most gardeners choose this particular period.

Note! Some gardeners prefer to change where they grow raspberries in the summer.However, during this period it is most difficult to replant the plant efficiently.

Choosing a new place

To successfully transplant raspberries, it is important to choose a suitable place for it. You need to pay attention to lighting, soil composition, proximity to groundwater, proximity and predecessors.

Favorable conditions

The more favorable conditions the raspberry grows in, the higher its productivity, tastier than berries. The location also affects the risks of infection by diseases and pests, and the general condition.

When choosing a location, pay attention to the following factors:

1. Location. Raspberries are a light-loving plant, but prolonged exposure to the scorching sun will negatively affect its condition (leaves and inflorescences will “burn”). The place for planting it should not be heavily shaded, but a location in the open sun is not a suitable option. It is best to place plantings from north to south.
2. Wind protection. Strong wind is another negative factor for raspberry growth. To protect the plant from its influence, bushes are planted near fences and walls of outbuildings. Some gardeners build artificial shelters. Such structures will protect the crop from the aggressive effects of ultraviolet radiation.
3. Groundwater. Their location should not be closer than 1 m to the ground surface. If the waters are close, be sure to dig drainage trenches along the raspberry tree.
4. Moisture protection. To avoid stagnation of liquid, which leads to rotting of the roots, the raspberry plant is located on hills. They can be formed artificially or be part of the natural topography of the garden.
5. Soil composition. Loamy and sandy loamy neutral soils are ideal for raspberries; they also grow in black soil.If the soil on the site does not meet these requirements, then its composition is adjusted by adding lime (if there is high acidity), high-moor peat (if the soil is alkaline), etc.

Precursor plants

Maintaining crop rotation will reduce the likelihood of raspberries becoming infected with infections and pests. With the correct choice of predecessors, the plant develops more correctly, since the soil has an optimal composition.

The best predecessors for raspberries:

• green manure (oats, lupine, mustard, rye);
• legumes (all types of beans, peas, soybeans);
• pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers;
• cruciferous vegetables (cabbage);
• onion garlic.

Unsuitable predecessors are: garden strawberries (strawberries), potatoes, gooseberries, currants, raspberries. After these plants, the crop can be planted no earlier than 5 years later.

Gooseberries and currants are bad neighbors for raspberries. These plants suffer from the same diseases, increasing the likelihood of raspberry infection. The minimum distance between them is 5 m.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Proper preparation of planting material is the key to success. The technology of work depends on what part of the bush is used.

Regardless of the type of planting material, preparation begins at least six months before transplantation (in this case, in the fall). The bush is fed (humus, phosphorus, ash are added) and watered abundantly before wintering. They carry out treatment against diseases and pests, sanitary and formative pruning.

Mature bushes

Adult bushes are replanted if they are healthy, strong, and in good condition. This is the most labor-intensive method that allows you to rejuvenate and preserve the old bush.

Preparing for transplantation:

1. In the spring, before transplanting, all shoots are pruned so that their height varies within 30-50 cm. After pruning, the plant will spend energy on forming a strong root system, and not on building up green mass.
2. A week before transplanting, the bush is watered and fed. Dry weather is chosen for digging.
3. The bush is dug in a circle of at least 30 cm, trying not to damage the root system. Movements should be directed from the outer sides to the center. When the plant is dug up, it is lifted with a shovel. If the bush does not come out of the ground, then the roots that support it are not cut off, but dug up.
4. If the plant is replanted entirely, then leave a lump of earth. To divide the bush, the root system is washed from the ground in water at room temperature.
5. The bushes are divided into parts using pruners. Each part must have a fully developed root system.

Overgrowth

Shoots are shoots that are thrown out by buds located on the roots. It usually grows at a distance of 20 to 70 cm from the bush.

It is better to replant root shoots in April. By this time, the shoots reach a height of 15-20 cm, but still remain green. By autumn they will become woody and will not take root well in the new place.

Select shoots located at a distance of 0.5 m from the bush and further. They are dug up along with a lump of earth, trying not to damage the root system. Separate from the mother root with pruning shears or a shovel.

In this case, when separated from the root system, the shoots are injured. To reduce the likelihood of infection and activate growth, the roots are washed from the ground, sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per bucket of water) and soaked for a day in a root formation stimulator.You don’t have to do this and leave the seedling in a coma of earth.

Replacement processes

Replacement shoots grow from the main root. They are located in the very mass of the bush. The height of specimens ready for transplantation reaches 50 cm.

How to prepare replacement shoots for transplantation:

1. In the fall, after fruiting has ended, old branches and root shoots are cut out. Only well-developed replacement shoots are left.
2. Each shoot is tied to an individual peg driven into the ground.
3. Before frost, raspberries are hilled.
4. In the spring, the branches are cut to 10 cm. Wait until leaves 1.5 cm in size appear.
5. Around the shoots, the root system is cut off at a distance of 20 cm.
6. The bush is pulled out of the ground. Old branches are removed. It is important that the replacement shoots have a developed, strong root system.

Rules for transplanting raspberries to a new place

It is not difficult to plant ready-made planting material in a new place. You just need to approach the preparation stage responsibly and follow the step-by-step instructions exactly.

Preparatory stage

If it was not possible to prepare the soil for raspberries in the fall, then in the spring this is done no later than 3 weeks before transplanting.

In autumn, the area is cleared of weeds, fallen leaves, branches and other plant debris. The soil is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet.

Fertilizers are applied. For 1 sq. m accounts for 6-8 kg of humus or manure, 35 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium salt. Some gardeners add another 1 kg of ash (for spring preparation) or 10 g of urea (for spring preparation).

If the acidity of the soil is increased, add dry lime (200 g of substance per 1 sq. m). You can determine acidity using litmus paper or by inspecting the area. Horsetail, moss, rusty water in wells, white coating on the soil are signs of increased acidity.

Advice! It is not necessary to apply fertilizer to the entire area. Some gardeners add nutrients to soil removed from planting holes.

Step-by-step instruction

When transplanting raspberries, you need to follow the basic rules and steps. Below is step-by-step instruction:

1. Before planting, seedlings are inspected for spots, cracks in the bark, damage, and other signs of diseases and pests.
2. Dig holes or trenches. A layer of drainage with a height of at least 5 cm and about 10 cm of earth is poured into the bottom. Up to 2 buckets of water are poured into the holes.
3. For seedlings with an open root system, earthen mounds are formed, over which the roots are evenly distributed. Seedlings with a closed root system are placed in a hole directly in an earthen coma.
4. To prevent the bushes from falling, they are fixed with support stakes.
5. The depressions are filled with soil. It is compacted layer by layer.
6. After planting, water the raspberries. The tree trunk circle is mulched with hay, straw or humus.

Planting schemes

There are 2 planting schemes - pit and trench. In the first case, holes are dug up to 50 cm deep and 30-40 cm in diameter. They are placed at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other.

The second option involves digging trenches up to 50 cm wide and up to 40 cm deep. Raspberry bushes are placed in them at a distance of 1.5 m from each other. There must be at least 2 m between trenches.

The hole pattern is suitable for planting single raspberry bushes, the trench pattern is suitable for organizing a large raspberry patch.

Note! Remontant raspberries are planted in the same way as regular ones. This parameter does not affect the months and methods of planting.

Care after transplant

In order for raspberries to produce large yields and not get sick, they need to be looked after, especially after transplantation:

1. Watering. Raspberries are demanding when it comes to watering, but do not like waterlogging of the soil.It is watered only in the dry season, when the soil dries out.
2. Loosening and weeding. After each watering and rainfall, the soil is loosened. It is important to weed young plantings regularly. This is convenient to do while loosening.
3. Mulching. This procedure is recommended to open and close the summer season. Mulch performs several functions at once: it saturates the soil with useful substances, slows down the growth of weeds, protects the plant from diseases, pests, frosts, normalizes air exchange, and prevents stagnation of liquid.
4. Trimming. The first 1-2 years after planting, pruning is not necessary. Then they act according to the standard scheme - thin out excess shoots, remove dry, damaged, diseased branches, and root shoots.
5. Preparing for winter. At the end of autumn, the area is cleared of dry leaves, weeds, and broken branches. The bush is mulched. The first year after transplantation, gardeners recommend covering raspberries with film.
6. Tying. Raspberries need garter, because thin branches can break under the weight of the fruit. This is especially true for remontant varieties.
7. Fertilizer. The first 3 years after transplantation, raspberries do not need fertilizing.

Conclusion

Replanting will help extend the life of raspberries, increase productivity, improve the taste and size of the berries, and reduce the likelihood of being affected by diseases and pests. It is recommended to carry out it once every 5-6 years, depending on the condition of the plants.

It is not difficult to carry out transplantation work. The main thing is to start preparing in advance and follow the basic rules.