Why do you need to prune climbing roses after flowering in summer and how to do it correctly

Pruning a climbing rose after flowering in summer is a mandatory procedure that supports the formation of buds this year and the next season. The procedure promotes the development of replacement shoots in once-blooming roses, and stimulates a second wave of flowering in remontant ones. We will tell you in this article how to prune climbing roses correctly and what to do next.

Why prune climbing roses after flowering in summer?

There is an opinion that climbing roses do not need pruning. However, without this procedure, the bushes grow greatly, which makes access to the internal branches difficult.

If space allows, increments are formed horizontally. As a result, many flower-bearing branches are formed, and the bushes stand in bloom, attracting attention. This formation simplifies caring for a climbing rose. Only a few apical shoots with flowers are formed on vertical stems.

Pruning climbing roses is the key to lush flowering, but the main goal of the procedure is not to form a bush and stimulate bud formation.

It involves solving completely different problems:

• organization of a high-quality skeletal foundation;
• removal of old and dry shoots;
• stimulating the growth of replacement branches;
• sanitary haircut;
• removal of faded flowers.

Climbing roses are capable of self-rejuvenation by producing young branches instead of old, unproductive stems. Pruning is just help from the gardener, aimed at maintaining the bushes in perfect condition.

Particular attention is paid to the development of replacement shoots, since climbing roses bloom on last year's growth. The main task of a rose grower is to obtain strong shoots that can bloom luxuriantly in the next season.

Summer pruning has another important goal - flowering control. This procedure is called regulatory. It supports bud formation and proper development of replacement shoots in once-blooming roses, and in repeat-blooming roses it stimulates the second wave of flowering.

Timing of the procedure

Climbing roses are pruned after flowering: in late summer - early autumn.

Favorable days in 2020:

• July: 1–3, 7–18, 22–31;
• August: 1, 5–10, 12–17, 21–24, 26–31;
• September: 1–3, 6–13, 18–24, 29, 30.

Favorable days in 2021:

• July: 3–8, 13–17, 19–23, 27, 28, 31;
• August: 1–6, 10–15, 17–19, 23, 27–31;
• September: 1–3, 8–13, 15, 16, 19, 20, 24–30.

Types of pruning

To form garden roses, 4 types of pruning are used: sanitary, rejuvenating, regulating and stimulating.

Sanitary involves the removal of black, brown, and brown-spotted branches. They are cut immediately after the bushes are freed from winter shelter. Attempts to save damaged stems do not give the expected results - they still dry out and often become a source of spread of diseases. The shoots are cut down to healthy wood in stages, so as not to remove excess, then collected and burned.

Anti-aging pruning - a radical procedure aimed at extending the life of the rose. The biological cycle of a flower involves pruning old branches to stimulate the appearance of replacement shoots. The plant has an amazing ability to regenerate, and such pruning only prolongs its life.With proper care, a rose can grow in the same place for more than 20 years. Neglecting radical pruning dooms the bush to slow aging and death. Old branches are removed into a ring. The procedure is performed in the spring.

Reference. If the rose has noticeably weakened and slowed down its growth, gardeners carry out radical pruning and leave 2-3 strong shoots on the bush, and cut the rest into a ring.

Formative Pruning is done to give the bush a vase-like shape. To do this, remove weak branches from below: they will never bloom. Of the 2 competing shoots, the strongest one is left. The technique is used when, of the three branches that emerged from the bud, only one needs to be left. To ensure uniform illumination of the bush by the sun, gardeners cut out part of the second-order shoots.

Stimulating pruning causes the rose to produce new shoots. In their work, they follow the rule: the weaker the shoot, the more it is pruned, and vice versa.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering

The main pruning of climbing roses is done after flowering. Work begins by removing old branches. Basal faded shoots are shortened at the base, and a frame is formed from young branches. If there are few young shoots, old branches are shortened to 30–40 cm.

Pruning repeat-blooming roses is simpler. Flower growers remove faded stems to the first apical five-leafed plant. Without this, the development of growth on roses is delayed by 2-3 weeks, which negatively affects flowering in the next season, and in some cases reduces the chance of seeing even a slight second wave by 90%.

If by mid-summer a sufficient number of shoots have not appeared on the bushes, young branches are laid horizontally or hilled to a height of 30–40 cm to stimulate shoot formation.If grafted climbing roses or those formed into a trunk grow on the site, in addition to standard summer pruning, a regular inspection is carried out for wild growth, which is important to remove on time.

Required materials and tools

To trim climbing roses, sharpened tools are used:

• special saw;
• pruner or hedge trimmer with a long handle;
• pruner

A pruner with two cutting blades works on the principle of ordinary scissors. The tool makes a clean and even cut, does not crush shoots or split the bark. It is advisable to have a separate pruner for working with roses and not use it, for example, for cutting raspberries. Before use, tools are disinfected with medical alcohol or a solution of potassium permanganate, periodically sharpened and lubricated with machine oil before storage.

To remove thick branches, use a lopper with strong handles. It works like a lever. A pruning saw is suitable for removing old, thick shoots that cannot be removed with other tools.

To protect your hands from cuts and scratches, it is recommended to perform haircuts with suede or leather gloves, or, in extreme cases, with thick tarpaulin with high cuffs.

Trimming schemes

Encouraging pruning of climbing roses after flowering is especially important to create a dense cover for a wall or fence.

Pruning climbing roses is divided into 4 groups depending on the type of growth and formation of shoots:

1. To the first group include roses that bloom in June - July on the basal shoots of last year's branches (Dorothy Perkins, Excelsa). In spring, the bush is given a horizontal shape. On the shoots of the previous year, buds are formed abundantly, and new branches continue to form in the same direction.In September, faded shoots are cut off, except for 2-3 last year. Side shoots are shortened by 2–4 buds.
2. Second group of roses develops similarly to the first. The difference is only in a small amount of root shoots. Summer flowering will begin on last year's shoots, and the basal ones later become “conductors”. At the end of summer, last year's branches are pruned into “conductors”; faded lateral and weak stems are shortened by 2-3 buds. The bush blooms on horizontally formed stems from last year and shortened shoots. Basal and replacement shoots begin to grow.
3. Roses of the third group They bloom on the shoots of the current year and are distinguished by thin and flexible stems, which allows them to be used for decorating arches, pergolas, walls, gazebos, and fences. The long branches form the main skeleton in a horizontal direction or at a slight angle. In summer, the basal stems are tied up, faded buds and weak branches are removed.
4. Fourth group roses are distinguished by their pyramidal shape, moderate growth rate, and less flexible stems. Flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. The length of the vertical stems does not exceed 3 m. Roses are used for vertical gardening; long stems are tied to a support. Flowering occurs on last year's shoots. Faded buds are periodically removed, weak and diseased branches are pruned into 2-3 buds. To give symmetry, several developed branches are removed at once. To stimulate the development of basal shoots, old ones are cut to 2/3 of their length.

Step-by-step pruning instructions

Rules for pruning climbing roses:

1. Clean and disinfected instruments are used for work.
2. The cut is made at an angle of 45° so that it goes down from the bud. This will prevent water stagnation.
3. When choosing a pruning point, it is advisable to focus on developed buds, which are usually located on the outside of the shoot. New branches will grow outward rather than into the center of the bush.
4. When removing a shoot, it is important to ensure that 5–8 mm of the stem remains above the developed bud.
5. When sanitary cutting, the cut is made down to healthy wood. Thin, weak, unproductive branches growing inward are removed to the ground.
6. Only 1 shoot is left from each bud.
7. The number of shoots on the bushes is maintained to ensure good illumination and ventilation inside.

All cuts on roses are treated with garden varnish or special “Rannet” paste to prevent the development of infections.

Features of the procedure for different varieties of climbing roses

In once-blooming ramblers faded branches are pruned into a ring immediately after flowering. This stimulates the appearance of new shoots next season. The method is used mainly in the south.

In the middle zone, where warm summers and long, mild autumns are rare, such a haircut is performed before sheltering for the winter. With good nutrition, new lashes will grow without additional stimulation. For grafted ramblers, 3–6 shoots are left, for rooted ones - 20. After flowering, the crown of young stems is shortened by 5–7 cm to stimulate the regrowth of lateral branches.

Large-flowered climbers and scrubs are semi-climbing roses that bloom repeatedly. Basic pruning of such varieties performed in the spring, simultaneously with a sanitary haircut. The lashes are shortened to the first strong bud. In summer, after flowering, 1/3 of the length of the shoots is removed. This will ensure active branching and stimulate a new wave of bud formation.

Reference. Old shoots are cut out in the fall up to 30 cm above ground level, and 2-3 buds are left at the side shoots.

Attempts to form bush roses from climbers or high scrub cause great damage to the plant. It will spend energy on the formation of new shoots, which will bloom only in the second half of summer.

Shrubs subjected to light corrective pruning. For once-blooming roses, it is performed in the summer, after flowering; for remontant roses, in the spring. The branches of tall scrubs are cut off by 1/3, low ones - by 1.2 m. Faded buds must be removed. 3 years after planting, 1-2 old shoots are removed annually. For once-blooming scrubs, the procedure is performed in spring and summer.

In ground cover roses, many of which are included in the group of scrubs, correct dense growth. In the spring, old shoots are cut out and trimmed, giving the bush a ball shape.

Care after pruning

Top dressing climbing roses plays an important role in their development and flowering. Some gardeners prefer ready-made fertilizers (for example, Agricola for roses), others make their own.

Granular granules are scattered under the bushes. feeding and embed them in the ground. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, and potassium-phosphorus compounds are used in the summer.

Reference. In the second half of summer, climbing roses are fertilized with Kemira universala and Gloria. To stimulate the appearance of buds, the drugs “Epin”, “Zircon”, “Bud” are used.

During the dry period, the rose garden is moistened 2 times a day. For irrigation, use warm, settled water, which is poured under the root, without getting on the leaves and buds.

Climbing roses are more likely than other varieties to suffer from infectious diseases and are susceptible to insect attacks.Gardeners have to deal with aphids and spider mites, leaf rollers, and thrips. Plants are treated when the first signs of infection are detected. For this purpose, insecticides “Karbofos”, “Shar Pei”, “Inta-Vir”, “Fufanon”, “Fitoverm”, “Aktellik”, “Aktara”, “Fosbetsid” are used.

Climbing roses suffer from rust, powdery mildew, and gray rot. Fungicides are used for treatment (“Horus”, “Delan”, “Rubigan”, “Previkur”, “Ditan M-45”, “Ridomil Gold”). The most dangerous disease of culture is bacterial cancer. Infected bushes have to be uprooted and burned because there is no treatment.

Before wintering, shoots of climbing roses are inspected and all leaves are removed. The stems are removed from the supports and trimmed. To stimulate flowering 2-3 weeks earlier than radical pruning do not comply, but provide enough free space to cover the bushes. The shoots are treated with antifungal agents, the lower part is insulated with sand, peat, and spruce branches. The branches are tied into bundles and placed on spruce branches. The top of the bushes is covered with non-woven fabric, earth, dry branches, straw, and in winter they are covered with snow.

In regions with snowy winters, they reduce the load on the stems by insulating roses along arcs. Tall climbing plants are not removed from their supports, but are carefully insulated with spunbond or lutrasil. Soil is placed on the root part and spruce branches are placed.

Advice from experienced flower growers

Advice from experienced gardeners will help maintain abundant flowering and health of climbing roses:

1. Due to their species characteristics, plants need support. A wall of a house, a fence, a gazebo, or a mesh fence are perfect for this.
2. The branches are fixed horizontally so that the rose blooms along its entire length. If you attach them vertically, buds will form only at the tops.
3. Plastic twine is used as fastening material. It reliably fixes the shoots and does not damage them.
4. Laying up old bushes for the winter is a labor-intensive task that often lasts for a week. The procedure is carried out strictly at above-zero air temperatures, since the stems break in the cold.
5. To prevent damage to bushes by insects, strong-smelling flowers are planted nearby: marigolds, calendula, fragrant dill.

Conclusion

Climbing roses can transform any building, be it the wall of an unremarkable country house, a mesh fence or an old wooden gazebo. To properly form the bush, maintain flowering and stimulate its second wave in the summer, the bushes are trimmed. Flower growers remove faded, old, dry and damaged shoots, limp buds and leaves.

The work uses a special saw, pruner or hedge trimmer with a long handle, and pruning shears. All cuts are made at an angle of 45° to prevent water stagnation on the kidney. After pruning, the plant is fed with potassium and phosphorus, watered if necessary, and the branches are covered for the winter before frost sets in.