Instructions for beginners: how to trim walnuts in the fall according to different patterns
Walnut kernels are tasty and healthy, used for making desserts and snacks. To get a rich harvest, gardeners must know how to care for a tree and what agrotechnical procedures it needs. One of the mandatory techniques is removing excess shoots. In this article we will look in detail at what pruning of walnuts is like in the fall and what its benefits are.
Why prune walnuts in the fall?
At the end of summer or beginning of spring, shoot growth slows down, the plant prepares for cold weather. Autumn pruning makes the tree healthier.
Thanks to the procedure, all unnecessary parts of the plant are removed - dry and weak shoots, infected, thin and diseased branches. The walnut increases immunity, it is less susceptible to diseases and attacks by insect pests. Pruning prepares the tree for winter, so it can withstand frost and bear fruit abundantly next year.
Pruning improves the appearance of the plant - gardeners cut out all chaotic and intertwined shoots. After the procedure, the tree looks well-groomed and neat.
Is this necessary?
Autumn pruning is mandatory if gardeners want to improve the health of the tree, extend its life and receive a rich and tasty harvest every year. For mature trees, the procedure is necessary to increase the number of fruit branches.
If you do not prune the plant, the shoots thicken, the yield decreases, and diseases and pests appear more often.Weak branches break during the wind. It is difficult to rehabilitate such a tree; it takes several years.
Timing of autumn pruning
The timing of the procedure depends on when the walnut tree loses its leaves. This usually happens in September-October. When choosing a date, pay attention to the climatic conditions of the growing region and temperature.
Summer residents recommend pruning the plant on a cloudy and windless morning at a temperature not lower than +10°C. The procedure is not carried out in rainy weather.
Attention! Walnuts are trimmed 2-3 weeks after fruiting. If the inflorescences appear in May, then the harvest is harvested in early September. If in June, then the nuts are removed before the beginning of October. It is not necessary to wait for full ripening - the fruits are picked green and put in a box for 2 weeks.
Kinds
There are several types of walnut pruning - rejuvenating, sanitary, shaping, regulating.
Each of them has its own purpose and is carried out in accordance with strict rules. Incorrect technique will do more harm to the plant than good.
Rejuvenating
Anti-aging pruning is relevant for trees older than 10 years, when the yield of mature plants gradually decreases, and the number of nuts becomes less and less every year.
During the pruning process, gardeners remove side branches, long new growth, and shoots growing into the interior of the tree. Thanks to the procedure, the life of the plant increases, and space appears for the development of new and fruit-bearing branches. The crown of the tree will take on the correct shape, and the nuts will become large.
The procedure is also relevant for those trees that consistently bear fruit poorly. Such plants are pruned every 7 years. The older the tree, the more intensive the pruning.Also, the rejuvenating procedure will save a tree that has suffered from frost.
Sanitary
Sanitary pruning is carried out if there are a lot of dry and weak shoots on the tree. They become deformed, become covered with stains and plaque, and change color. Such branches create a favorable environment for the development of diseases and the proliferation of pests, so the sanitary procedure is the prevention of their occurrence.
The event also restores the strength of the plant if it has already been ill. Most often, walnuts are affected by marsoniosis, bacteriosis, and brown spot.
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Formative
Formative pruning is aimed at stimulating the growth and development of healthy shoots and increasing yield. Thanks to the procedure, the walnut's immunity is strengthened, the crown becomes powerful and resistant to external factors.
Formative pruning is also used when young plants need help with crown formation. It is important that the tree grows evenly in length and width, and that new shoots are evenly distributed along the skeletal branches. The procedure is carried out in October, when sap flow ends.
Attention! During formative pruning, gardeners shorten the middle trunk and all skeletal branches. This is necessary in order to get a new skeletal branch if one of the existing ones is damaged.
Regulatory
Regulatory pruning is carried out from 7-8 years after planting. By this time, a large number of small shoots and lateral processes have been formed in the crown, which interfere with normal fruiting.The leaves do not receive the required amount of sunlight and obscure each other and nearby growing shoots.
Summer residents recommend cutting out the semi-skeletal branches of the lower tier and thinning out the crown. Shoots with mechanical damage and wounds are also removed.
Formative pruning schemes
The crown is formed according to a leader, tiered, cup-shaped pattern.
The leader technique is a method of distributing frame branches around the tree trunk in a spiral. The side branches are left on the lower 3 tiers until fruiting begins, after which they are thinned out until they are completely removed. Thanks to the leader pattern, the crown is well lit from all sides, which helps to increase productivity.
When pruning in layers, 3 frame branches are left on each tier, the distance between which is at least 15 cm. An adult tree should have about 5-6 tiers. The lower one is removed during the procedure - no branches should grow up to 1.5 m above the ground. The crown is thinned out during tiered formative pruning.
They resort to a cup-shaped pattern to make harvesting more convenient. The bowl-shaped crown allows air to pass through, creating favorable conditions for fruit development. Pruning is carried out for 3 years, annually removing the central branches until the tree has 4 skeletal branches at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The remaining shoots are crossed with the branches of the upper tiers.
Preparing a nut for trimming
Work begins only with trees taller than 1.5 m. After fruiting, the walnut is watered one last time and the soil is loosened so that the moisture is better absorbed. Fertilizer is not applied in the fall; it is better to do it in spring and summer.
Summer residents pay attention to ensuring that the tree is free from insect pests and diseases.If there are signs of damage, then the plant is first treated and only then the procedure begins. Gardeners also monitor the cleanliness of the garden area - it should be free of debris, weeds and plant debris. Fallen leaves are collected and burned.
How to properly trim a walnut in the fall
To prune walnuts in the fall correctly and without harm to the plant, gardeners prepare tools in advance and study the instructions.
Required materials and tools
To remove green shoots and thin young shoots, use garden shears or sharp-edged pruning shears. A blunt instrument will harm the plants - it leaves torn cuts on the walnut tree, they take a long time to heal and serve as a breeding ground for the development of diseases and pests. The handle of the gardening tool should fit snugly in your hand and not slip off. The rubberized handles are comfortable. Before use, equipment is disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
To trim thick and old branches, use a hand or gasoline saw. If the branches are located high, use a ladder and a lopper with long aluminum handles. Experienced gardeners recommend paying attention to personal safety rules.
Attention! For any type of pruning, a garden varnish is required. This is a thick, soft substance based on tree resin. Garden varnish protects cuts from bacteria and microbes and promotes rapid healing of wounds. When using var, rubber gloves and a respirator are used.
Step-by-step instructions for pruning
The procedure begins with an inspection of the tree - summer residents determine which branches and on which tier need to be removed.
Next we start cutting:
- shorten two-year-old shoots longer than 60 cm and dry branches;
- cut down branches that are broken and damaged during the harvesting process;
- remove 1-2 skeletal branches growing in the center of the crown;
- cut out thin and long shoots with shoots;
- cut off young shoots;
- cut out fattening shoots and shoots affected by insects;
- Lubricate the cut areas with garden varnish.
Mistakes to Avoid
A common mistake made by novice gardeners is cutting branches to zero. It is recommended to leave short fruiting branches of about 20-40 cm, so that next year they turn into fruiting shoots. Summer residents also forget to disinfect gardening tools, which is why the walnut tree becomes infected with diseases or damaged by insect pests.
Walnut trees also suffer because gardeners do not maintain tiers. In each tier you need to leave 3-4 skeletal branches. Otherwise, there will be no benefit from formative or regulatory pruning.
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Features of pruning young and old trees
When pruning young trees (up to 5 years old), pay attention to young green growth. There is a lot of it on the lower tier, which is why the branches are poorly lit. Remove the growth with garden shears - it is thin and does not require special tools. There is an opinion that when pruning, the walnut tree does not need to be lubricated with garden varnish - small wounds will heal on their own.
Attention! In the first years, special attention is paid to formative pruning. Despite the fact that the walnut is not yet bearing fruit, it is at this time that it is important to ensure that the branches grow in the right direction. Young plants should not be overcrowded.
Starting from 7-10 years old, a rejuvenating procedure is carried out annually. This is as important as timely watering or fertilizing.If the tree’s crown is not visible, then all non-fruit-bearing and deformed shoots are cut out. There is no need to be afraid of such drastic measures - this will rejuvenate the tree and extend its life. Gardeners make sure that branches do not grow inside the crown.
Post-procedure care
When the wounds heal, the walnut is sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture or urea. This is done to protect the tree from diseases and pests. Treat the plant in the morning or evening, using a spray bottle with a solution.
Adult plants overwinter without shelter, and young trees are wrapped in burlap for the winter. The base of the trunk is mulched with hay or wood chips - this protects the root system from freezing. This rule is especially relevant for regions with cold and changeable climates.
Advice from experienced gardeners
Experienced gardeners recommend carrying out formative pruning in several stages.. In the second year after planting, a strong vertical shoot is selected, and the remaining branches are pinched. On the third, the lateral shoots are cut and a crown is formed, and on the fourth, 5-6 skeletal branches are left in the crown.
Summer residents advise monitoring the condition of the tree when carrying out the procedure. For example, if the nut is sick, it is better to postpone the procedure. There is no point in trying to improve the health of a plant until it gets rid of bacteria and germs.
If after pruning the wounds do not heal for a long time, then re-treat them with garden varnish. If it is not available, then use clay putty: 2 parts of clay are mixed with 1 part of mullein and 2 parts of fine hay. The mixture is diluted with water to a thick consistency.
Conclusion
Young and perennial walnut trees need pruning.During the procedure, gardeners remove old, dry, non-bearing and damaged shoots. To cut thin branches, use garden shears, and for thick ones, use a saw.
The instrument must be sharp, otherwise lacerated wounds will take a long time to heal. Afterwards, the shoots are lubricated with garden varnish, treated with a solution of copper sulfate and prepared for wintering. Without pruning, the tree grows weak, thickened and bears fruit poorly.